five tips

Reproductions: how to check for authenticity

Updated Jan 12, 2024

How to tell if a piece of ethnic jewellery is authentic? Many pieces are sold as “antique” or “traditional” when they are actually modern reproductions. But what is ‘authentic’, and how does that show in jewellery?

Authenticity in traditional jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa

First off, authenticity is a complex issue. Because who determines what ‘authentic’ is? [1] Often, the notion of authenticity is both visual and pinned to a moment in time: this is what it looked like then, and so this is what it is supposed to look like forever.

That is often the result of available sources like books and online image searches, as I wrote about here, that provide that reference of what jewellery should look like. But personal adornment is always subject to change, so comparing a piece of jewellery to an image frozen in time is not enough in itself.

Factors such as age, materials, craftsmanship, provenance, motifs, and designs should all be considered when determining the authenticity of a piece.

So, what should you look for? Here are 5 points to consider.

1. Age and patina in traditional jewellery

Older jewellery will show signs of age and wear, which can be relevant indicators of authenticity. Just picture in your mind how a bracelet has sat on a wrist for years, a necklace moved over textiles every day, an anklet jingled along with its wearer on her way to the market…Just like with humans, age shows.

Scratches, dents, and tarnish may indicate that a piece is authentic and has been used, rather than being a modern reproduction. But be aware: tarnish can have been artificially inflicted upon a piece as long ago as, well, yesterday.

Patina, that soft silk-like shimmer on a piece of jewellery as a result of years of contact and wear, is difficult to replicate in reproductions. So that can also be an indicator of authenticity.

And then there is the fact that there are truly antique pieces out there, that do not necessarily show signs of use and wear. Simply because they might not have been worn frequently or they have been carefully preserved over the years – read all about that phenomenon here.

Signs of use and wear alone are not definitive indicators of authenticity. Therefore, it’s important to consider these signs together with other indicators of authenticity, such as materials and craftsmanship, provenance, motifs and designs, and hallmarks and stamps.

2. Materials and craftsmanship of jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa

Craftsmanship can be a telling sign. Authentic traditional jewelry was made by skilled artisans who used techniques passed down from generations. These techniques, materials and designs are specific to each culture, region and timeframe and can be difficult to replicate in reproductions or forgeries.

As craftmanship varies even within the same culture and region, and also changes over time like anything else in personal adornment, it is absolutely essential to have a good understanding of the traditional techniques, materials, and designs specific to the culture, region and timeframe the jewelry is claimed to be from.

No piece is created equal, in terms of craftsmanship: some pieces will be more intricate, detailed, and finely made than others.

It really depends on the maker, the time period and the intended usage. For example: many silversmiths throughout the region were Jewish. After 1948, they migrated to Israel, leaving a lacuna in skill and knowledge behind. The finesse of their work is hard to imitate.

And as for materials, a main question is whether the material did exist in the period the piece is supposedly from – it would not be the first time you’ll find a necklace with early 20th century trade beads advertised as genuinely 18th century (and that is even without the possibility of the beads themselves being reproduced).

3. Motifs and designs: see, study, learn

Original jewellery often features unique motifs, patterns, and designs that are specific to the culture and region that the jewellery comes from.

This is where more research comes in: familiarizing yourself with particular motifs and the execution of those motifs requires lots of reading and, of course, seeing. One of the things I enjoy the most is endless comparing of pieces.

And as with many other fields of research, the devil is in the details: the overall composition may be featured in a wide area, but the execution of the details is mostly telling of the exact origin of a piece. Modern reproductions often get those tiny details not quite right, including the level of craftmanship, so getting a handle on these is key.

4. Hallmarks and stamps in vintage silver jewellery from Southwest Asia and North Africa

Check for the presence of hallmarks or stamps. These may indicate the metal content, maker, and sometimes the date of the piece. As they are mandatory, they can often not be forged (a modern reproduction of an old piece still needs a current hallmark to comply with the law). Checking for hallmarks that are contemporary with the period the piece is supposedly from, may help in determining its authenticity.

But, be aware that not all pieces are hallmarked, especially older ones. Most countries in North Africa and Southwest Asia only adopted a hallmarking system in the late 19^th and early 20^th century. Many pieces older than that will not have been hallmarked, or may have been hallmarked only when a piece was eventually sold.

5. Provenance: this can be of great help

And finally, there is the provenance of a piece that may help determine its authenticity. Provenance is the history of a piece of jewellery, and this is where the paperwork comes in.

Particularly for older pieces, provenance may help to establish whether a piece is indeed as old as is claimed: are there any sources that will confirm this exact piece has been in a family for decades? With traditional jewellery, this is a difficult path.

See 15 reasons why provenance matters in this article – did you ever think of reason no. 3?

Many heirloom pieces that are sold do not come with receipts of purchase, as they have been handed down within a family for generations.  And like anything else, provenance can be forged, too: it’s not that difficult to provide an old-looking piece of paper (if it can be done with papyri, it can be done with receipts!).

Recognizing reproductions: learning by doing

Determining the authenticity of a piece of jewellery is a process that involves all of these together: the more you familiarize yourself with jewellery through handling, seeing and reading, the easier it will be to distinguish reproductions from authentic pieces!

–

More articles on jewellery research? Find them all here!

More on the background of jewellery? You might enjoy one of the e-courses!

Always the latest blog articles, book reviews and other jewellery news in your inbox? Join the Jewellery List and stay in the know!

—

References

[1] Broekhoven & A. Geurds 2013. Creating authenticity : authentication processes in ethnographic museums. Sidestone Press (read online for free)

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].