Practical do’s and don’ts

How to care for coral in ethnic jewellery

Updated December 20th, 2024

Coral has a rich history in Middle Eastern and North African ethnic jewellery. You’ll find it alongside beads and other elements, set in silver, worked into cabochons… But how to properly care for coral? It’s a tricky substance and regular cleaning may damage it quickly. So, in this guide, I’ll go over the various forms of coral used in necklaces and provide practical tips for cleaning, storing, and caring for jewellery with coral.

Coral in ethnic jewellery: what you need to know

The main thing to keep in mind is that coral is not a mineral, like other beads you may encounter on a necklace, but rather a marine organism. You’re actually looking at a skeleton of sorts: coral is the skeletal remains of colonies of tiny polyps. The coral used in Middle Eastern and North African jewellery often comes from the Mediterranean Sea.

Because of its marine origins, coral is super sensitive and porous. Neglecting it or worse, using the wrong methods to care for it, may result in the coral losing its colour, breaking or damaging.

Coral in ethnic jewellery: what NOT to do

So, how to avoid disaster? Here are three things to never, ever do:

1 – Soaking it in water

I realize this may sound a bit counterintuitive for a material that actually develops in the sea! But coral is porous, and giving it a long bath can ruin its structure. Avoid submerging coral jewellery in water or exposing it to prolonged periods of high humidity. Moisture can lead to the breakdown of the coral’s calcium carbonate structure and may cause it to become discoloured, or lose its lustre.

2 – Using an ultrasonic cleaner

Superhandy for your glasses, but please do not put jewellery with coral components in your ultrasonic cleaner. That is not only because it would require the coral to be submerged (which it does not like). The intense vibrations generated by ultrasonic cleaners can be too abrasive for the delicate surface of coral, leading to scratches, chips, or other forms of damage.

3 – Using chemical cleaning agents

Coral is a diva! It is sensitive to harsh chemicals, including strong cleaning agents, solvents, and abrasive substances. Avoid using these when cleaning coral jewellery, as they can lead to discoloration, deterioration, or irreversible damage to the coral’s surface.

Coral in ethnic jewellery: how to clean it

1 – Observe the construction. How is coral worked into your jewellery? Is it strung on cord, or added as cabochons to the surface of a pendant or brooch? How is it attached: secured with resin, glue, held in place by prongs? What is sitting next to it? All these factors should be considered when attempting to clean coral in ethnic jewellery. If in any doubt, consult an expert in jewellery restauration!

2 – Easy does it. Begin by gently brushing off any surface dirt with a very soft, dry brush or a soft cloth. If necessary, dampen the cloth with lukewarm water, ensuring it is not too wet. Avoid using hot water or steam, as this can lead to discoloration or degradation of the coral.

Coral in ethnic jewellery: how to store it

Proper storage is crucial to maintaining the integrity of old coral jewellery. Because of its porosity, coral can be affected by changes in temperature and humidity. To prevent deterioration, store your jewellery in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. You may want to consider using a soft pouch or a lined jewellery box to protect the pieces from dust and scratches.

When storing multiple pieces, wrap each item individually in a soft cloth to prevent them from coming into contact with each other. It’s advisable to avoid storing coral jewellery alongside other jewels that could potentially scratch or damage the surface.

And of course, as with any jewellery storage: periodically check your stored jewellery to ensure it remains in good condition and address any issues promptly.

Coral in ethnic jewellery: how to revive its lustre

A method you’ll often find to restore lustre to coral, is by rubbing it with oil. Rubbing coral with oil can give it a glossy finish. This is particularly beneficial for vintage or old coral jewellery that may have dulled over time.

But… here is a caveat, too. It is crucial to approach this method with caution.

It’s really important to bear in mind that not all coral responds well to oil, and the effectiveness of this method can vary depending on the specific type of coral used in your jewellery. If in doubt, and especially when dealing with valuable or antique pieces, it’s advisable to consult with professionals who specialize in coral and jewellery conservation for personalized guidance.

Here are some considerations when caring for coral by rubbing it with oil:

1 – Observe the coral

Have a close look at your coral. How porous is it? Does it show clear pits and grooves? Porous coral varieties may absorb oil differently, and some corals may not benefit from oil treatment at all. When in doubt, consult an expert!

2 – Use suitable oils

Like I said, coral is a diva! Do not use harsh or scented oils: they may contain chemicals that can harm the coral. Stick to simple, pure oils without additives. Mineral oil or baby oil are often used, as these are mild and less likely to cause adverse reactions.

3 – Test it first

As with your own skin, test a small surface before rubbing your entire coral necklace with the wrong oils. Use a cotton swap and apply a tiny amount.

4 – Be gentle

When you have observed that the oil does not lead to an adverse reaction, apply the oil very sparingly with a soft cloth or a cotton swap. Here, too, it is paramount to avoid excessive saturation. Wipe any excess oil with a clean, dry cloth.

Caring for coral: not that difficult

I’d hope to have given you a few pointers on how to enjoy your coral jewellery. It’s really not that hard to properly care for it, as long as you check every now and then how your coral ornaments are doing!

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