Draa Valley necklace

Amazigh Berber jewellery

Amber and coral necklace from the Draa Valley, Morocco

Published Jan 17, 2024

A coral and amber stunner in the signature arrangement of the Draa Valley, Morocco. In this article, I’m zooming in on its composition, its meaning and its many lives.

A glorious Draa Valley amber and coral necklace with colourful woollen tassels

Close-up of a spectacular Amazigh Berber necklace from the Draa Valley in Morocco, showing its abundance in coral, amber and trade beads

An Amazigh necklace from the Draa Valley

You’ll find this type of necklace presented as Berber or Amazigh necklace: while ‘Berber’ is the word almost everyone knows, ‘Amazigh’ is actually how its people prefer themselves referred to. I’ll go into the reasons behind that in another post: this article analyzes the meaning and history of this beautiful piece of jewellery.

This huge, gorgeous Berber necklace was worn in the Draa Valley, Morocco. As you see in the gallery above (click the image to enlarge it), it’s made of eight strands of large branch coral beads and a central arrangement of chunky amber beads flanked by shells.⁠

This necklace was worn by a married woman. As its individual components, notably the sizeable pieces of branch coral and amber, are quite expensive, the necklace was also a show of wealth. [1]

Draa Valley necklace: amulets and beads

Between the coral abundance is a treasure of other beads. Amazonite, agate, glass, shell and smaller amber beads are strung in with a variety of beads and pendants in low grade silver: there are coins, cones, cornerless cubes, bell-shaped beads and a few amulets.⁠ [2]

The amber holds several meanings: this is where you’ll find specific information about the hidden powers of amber in Berber jewellery. Amazonite beads were believed to be associated with fertility, because of its green colour: an association found with many green stones.

Ancient trade beads are a testimony to the long history of trade and commerce in the region. As are the polished brown and green agate beads, that were imported on a large scale from Idar Oberstein in Germany.

And it holds several low-grade silver beads, amulets and pendants. These are lovely in their variety, and are randomly strung in with the rest: this is where you’ll find the personal preference of the wearer reflected most closely, as these are the items that she would have selected herself.

She may have collected various beads and pendants over time. They may also come from other pieces of jewellery that had fallen apart – and that is another factor to consider when looking at these necklaces: they fell apart at some point during their lives.

Berber jewellery from the Draa Valley: its many lives

This piece is still in its original stringing. But what does that really mean? I think it’s important to consider that this is the last stringing with the purpose of wearing it within the culture itself.

‘Last’, because during its life, it would have been restrung multiple times anyway. Its threads would become worn after years of beads weighing them down. Eventually one of them would break, and then it would be restrung. That was also the perfect occasion to add some more beads and other pendants. So, with several actions of restringing, which ‘incarnation’ is the original one…? That’s why I think looking at its purpose is an important factor in determining whether stringing is ‘original’.

Another indicator of ‘original stringing’ is its closure, so let’s go into that next.
⁠

" Necklaces have several lives: they are restrung multiple times, each time with tiny differences to its arrangement and composition'

Draa Valley necklace details: its closure

What is even more remarkable about this Amazigh necklace is that it still has its original closure: the two large tassels of woolen cords. These are quite heavy themselves, and form a perfect counterweight to the weight of the beads.⁠

They are held together by a woolen band. Like a scrunchy in your hair, that is what keeps the two heavy tassels together. The idea behind the tassels is not to knot them, that would be uncomfortable to wear, but to simply tie them closely together.

There are other cultural reasons to avoid knots in general: you’ll find those here.

You may find similar necklaces outfitted with a simple knot-and-loop closure: that is a later alteration to make these necklaces more suited to the taste of collectors who’d want to wear them. And that brings me to their afterlife.

Draa Valley necklace: its afterlife

Necklaces like these, in their original setup, are becoming increasingly rare. Many of these have been broken up in the past to be sold, as its individual coral, amazonite and amber beads may fetch a handsome price.

You’ll also find modern arrangements reflecting the style of the Draa Valley, sometimes put together with antique elements and sometimes with entirely newly made beads.

Some of these are used in traditional dance performances (you don’t want your antique piece snapping apart on stage, after all) both in Morocco itself and abroad. As such, the design of this necklace is still communicating the cultural identity of its wearers, and I think that is a beautiful thing!

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References

[1] Berber Women of Morocco, Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent 2014, p. 73.

[2] See the chapter Jewelry Art by Cynthia Becker in Berber Women of Morocco, Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent 2014.

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Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

How to store ethnic silver

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Tips for collectors

four tips

How to store ethnic silver: 4 proven methods

Updated Jan 11, 2024

How do I store my traditional jewellery from the Middle East? That’s a question I get a lot, and definitely a field I made mistakes in myself. So I’m sharing four proven methods of what works, and what does not work: let’s get to it!

Storing silver jewellery: what you should know first

Before we get to tucking away your collection safely, there are a few things to know about silver itself.

Silver tarnishes easily: when exposed to air and moisture, but there are many other sources that cause a chemical reaction in the silver. That includes people: I’m sure you know several people whose silver jewellery turns dark after a day of wearing, and others whose silver shines even brighter after that same day!

It’s also a relatively soft material that scratches and dents faster than you might like, and vintage silver items are no different. Storing and handling silver always should come with the protection of your items in mind. So here are 4 tips to start storing your silver jewellery in an optimal way!

Storing traditional silver: keep your pieces separate

Store each piece individually and make sure it does not rub against other items. This can be achieved in the simplest way by just wrapping them in acid-free tissue paper, anti-tarnish paper or soft cloth (but not wool).

Larger items, such as complete sets of fibulas for example, can be wrapped in bubble plastic, again taking care that the individual fibulas are kept from direct contact.

Make sure your pieces are clean and dry

If you wear your vintage jewellery, make sure it is clean and dry before you store your items away. Sweat and skin contact can damage silver in the long run, so wipe them off and make sure they are dry before storing them.

The same goes for when they have just been cleaned: wait until they are completely dry before storing them, or better, have a professional clean them instead. More about cleaning silver is here.

Keep your silver pieces locked away from air

Store them in an airtight box or individual zip pouches. Zip pouches come in many sizes: choose the size that fits your piece snugly, but gives it room to move a little. Wrap your pieces in acid free paper before putting them into a zip pouch: the pouch itself may contain abrasive materials that could scratch your silver.

Airtight boxes don’t have to be anything fancy, but can simply be the type of box you store food in (refridgerator boxes, but also cookiejars work well – make sure they have no rubber bands, though).

Adding silica gel (those little packages that come with new shoes, handbags and other leather products) or activated charcoal will absorb moisture and keep your silver from tarnishing.

Avoid direct contact of these materials with your silver, though: make sure the packaging is not damaged.

… and don’t do this

Do not wrap your silver in pages torn from newspapers or magazines: both the ink and the paper will harm it. The same goes for the use of rubber bands (no bundling bracelets together using rubber bands, please)

Those rustic looking, uncoated wooden boxes that make for excellent atmospheric photos are not as fantastic for storing silver, either, unless it is packaged in zip pouches. That also applies to wooden chests of drawers, cabinets and cupboards: avoid direct contact, and even then, check regularly.

Wool also contains agents that may react with silver: that explains why silver elements on a woolen headdress for example turn dark every so often.

Taking care to store your silver properly will go a long way in helping you enjoy your collection for years to come!

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References

Learn more about silver tarnishing and how to avoid it here

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Amber

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Reviews

From Antiquity to Eternity

Amber

I love books that deepen our understanding of one particular material, and so when I met dr. Rachel King briefly early in 2022 and she told me she was finishing a book on amber, I was excited! And rightly so: Amber. From Antiquity to Eternity is a most engaging and important discussion of all things amber.

Amber

What stands out from the first lines is how very well this book is written. It is accessible, relatable, easy to follow, but by no means simple. The volume explores the world of amber in great detail and with obvious knowledge. Given the amount of information and the complexity of the topics presented, clarity of writing is of great importance: you will enjoy the lucid and engaging style of Dr. King!

Amber discusses amber from a great many angles. In eight chapters, the past, present and future of this material that has enticed humans for millennia are presented. The first of these deals with definitions: what is amber, where is it found, what different types exist? In this chapter, the wide reach of this book becomes apparent. Themes like ecosystems, the science behind investigating amber and research angles yet to be pursued all are discussed. The next chapter picks up on this theme of research in presenting what earlier scholars believed amber to be. This results in a delightful overview of legends and myths, some of which may reflect actual archaeological finds – and with that, the next chapter on the use of amber artefacts by humans begins.

This focuses mainly on Europe and China, and contains a great overview of amber finds from prehistory and the early Middle Ages. The following chapter picks up the narrative in later periods and highlights the amber trade in all its aspects. How and where to find amber is followed up upon by the economic, political and social aspects of the amber industry. An excursion to the Dominican Republic shows the harsh reality of amber mining, and as such makes us reflect on not just past monopolies on the mining and selling of amber, but also of the present and future of the amber industry. The amber industry is fraught with illegal and unsafe extraction and trade: just one example is how in 2015, 90% of the amber from Ukraine has been extracted without permission (p. 94). This book certainly gets you thinking on the darker sides of those pretty amber jewellery items that are offered for sale far and wide.

It will come as no surprise that this material, that has played such an important part in trade networks and political power plays, has been imitated as well. I am obviously aware that amber is widely faked, but I did not know how far back this went – did you know a recipe to imitate amber existed in China some 1,800 years ago, and that imitations of amber have been found in Spain that date back 4,000 years? And there is so much more involved in imitations: from smell to inclusions, from weight to colour – and increasingly innovative and scientific ways to expose forgeries.

The chapter on jewellery is a varied introduction in the many forms amber is worn as adornment. That is not just as personal adornment, but also as precious objects to show wealth and status, such as handles, mouthpieces or inlays. In this chapter the colonial use of amber as commodity is addressed, and its fragrant capacities and its meaning in ritual are touched upon as well. This is a dazzling and kaleidoscopic portrait of the use of amber, which is continued in the next chapter on artworks in amber. The final chapters deals with lost amber in again a variety of angles: not just actual lost pieces, but also the loss of status and knowledge. In this chapter, the role of private and public collections in preserving amber surfaces. As many pieces with spectacular inclusions find their way into private collections, scientists may not always have access to study these (p. 217) – and studying amber and its eternal world within from a scientific perspective is relevant for not just our past, but our future as well. (so if you do have a collection: please give some thought on how to pass your collection on to the future)

The focus of this beautifully illustrated book is mainly on Europe and Asia. The use and meaning of amber in other parts of the world are only touched upon in a few instances, but that does not diminish the relevance of this book. What makes Amber so important is its wide scope. It places amber not just in an art historian or historical context, but also in a social, environmental and humanitarian context. Throughout the book, attention is called to the ethical and sustainability challenges with amber, the knowledge that can be gained from it about our climate and planet, and the inevitable choices that present themselves. The attractive way in which the author presents an accessible overview of the history and uses of amber as well as serious food for thought in one fluid narrative is rare, and I enjoyed every page of this book. Possibly the most powerful line I read is the last one, in which past and future of our planet meet: I highly recommend reading this book, as it will not only tell you everything you would want to know about amber itself, but also eminently shows the importance of our choices in studying and treating it for humanity – which stretches so far as our very survival.

Amber. From Antiquity to Eternity, by Rachel King, 2022.

272 pp., full-colour, in English. Published by Reaktion Books

Available online and with the publisher.

I purchased the book in the British Museum.

More on amber in jewellery is in this article. If books like these are of interest to you, join the Jewellery List and have reviews of new books sent to you!

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. She considers jewellery heritage and a historic source. She has authored several books on jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, and on archaeological jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the Society of Jewellery Historians, the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden and the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center, among many others. She curates exhibitions and teaches online courses on jewellery from North Africa & Southwest Asia.

Magic of Amber

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Magic & Amulets

Magic of amber

amber throughout history

Amber Amulets

Updated Jan 17, 2024

One of the most used components in jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia is amber. This fossilized resin has been popular as adornment since prehistoric times, and has been attributed with a variety of magical capacities throughout millennia. What is the significance of amber? Let’s explore how amber has been the go-to substance in a surprisingly large field of problems!

The power of amber: the Roman period

Amber was already highly valued by the Romans, who attributed a great deal of capacities to this material. It was thought to help against throat diseases, to alleviate fever, solve ear aches and problems with sight, and cure stomach pains and problems in the urinary trajectory. [1]

Notably, amber was believed to be specifically effective for women and children; when a woman dreamt of amber ringer rings, this was considered a beneficial omen. [2]

Its scent may also have played a role in its magical powers: rubbing an amber object firmly produces a resinous fragrance. Evidence of amber dice that have been rubbed vigorously in the past may show that gamers sought to influence their throw by activating the magical powers of amber [3], although, as we shall see, I think its static capacity may also have helped to attract winners’ luck.

The fragrance of amber may also be the reason why it was sometimes burned in ritual settings: archaeology only recovers the remains, but it may have been its smell that was the key behind this practice.

Amber in medieval amulets

Amber continued to be much appreciated in the Middle Ages. What people in Europe thought of its powers only becomes clear in the 13th century, when it is listed in a book on the healing capacities of stones as excellent remedy against stomach ache. [4]

A piece of amber was to be put in wine, beer or water and left to sit there for some time, after which you would take it out and drink the fluid – this method of transferring the magical capacity of a substance to a fluid that can be consumed has existed for millennia.

The use of amber against urinary problems was also still very much alive in the Middle Ages: imbuing milk with amber as described above would lighten your load. Here again, the magic works following the lines of analogy, this time because of its yellow hues.

Amber in amulets from the Middle East

In Arabic, amber is called kahramān. Here another magical use reveals itself: the name is related to kahrabah, meaning electricity. When real amber is rubbed, it becomes slightly static. This makes it an excellent substance to attract the love of a husband, as the Bedouin in Palestine believed. [5]

And who knows, maybe the amber carving of Amor, the god of love, from the Roman period served the same purpose…?

Amber also is very powerful against the evil eye in general. The combination of its fragrance (as was already the case with the Romans) and its quality to keep evil at a distance makes it a highly valued prayer bead: these are also held, rubbed and passed through the fingers many times. [6]

Amber in amulets from North Africa

Like in many other parts of the world, amber is used to dispel teething pains. [7] In a way of analogous magic similar to that of earlier periods and cultures, it is considered a warming and invigorating substance. This is why the Amazigh also consider it very useful against rheuma and respiratory inflictions, as well as against skin diseases.

Additionally, to the Amazigh amber represents the warmth of the sun, and as such forms a natural pair with silver elements that invoke the power of the moon. As amber was so highly valued for its beneficial properties as well as visual expression of wealth, amber beads were often strung with small felt pieces in between to keep the beads from damaging. [8]

The long history of amber as an amulet

So what you see, is that the qualities of amber occur in more or less similar forms time and again. It was believed to be useful against ear aches in both ancient Rome and modern Egypt, it works its magic against stomach aches and respiratory problems from the Maghreb to the Levant, and has helped babies through their teething pains since the Middle Ages. Amber has captivated the human imagination since forever!

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What other materials were used in amulets?

Want to see more? Check out the video page, where I’m showing a stunning necklace from Morocco with absolutely gorgeous amber beads!

Find out more about the magic of materials in the e-course on Amulets and Magic in Jewellery!

There is a free e-book on amulets in jewellery ready for you here…discover how they work!

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References

[1] Koster, A. 2013. The Cemetery of Noviomagus, p. 174

[2] Davis, G. 2018. Rubbing and Rolling, Burning and Burying: The Magical Use of Amber in Roman London, in: Parker, A. & S. McKie 2018. Material Approaches to Roman Magic. Occult Objects and Supernatural Substances. Oxbow Books, Oxford, p. 71

[3] Idem, p. 75

[4] Hildegard von Bingen, Heilsame Schöpfung, übersetzt und eingeleitet von Ortrun Riha, Beuroner Kunstverlag 2016, p. 278

[5] Biasio, E. 1998. Beduinen im Negev, Zürich, p. 221

[6] Idem, p. 221-222

[7] Draguet, M. 2021. Berber Memories, p. 350

[8] Berber Women of Morocco, Fondation Pierre Bergé/Yves Saint Laurent 2014, p. 73

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