Draa Valley necklace

Draa Valley necklace

by | Objects

Amazigh Berber jewellery

Amber and coral necklace from the Draa Valley, Morocco

Published Jan 17, 2024

A coral and amber stunner in the signature arrangement of the Draa Valley, Morocco. In this article, I’m zooming in on its composition, its meaning and its many lives.

A glorious Draa Valley amber and coral necklace with colourful woollen tassels
Close-up of a spectacular Amazigh Berber necklace from the Draa Valley in Morocco, showing its abundance in coral, amber and trade beads

An Amazigh necklace from the Draa Valley

You’ll find this type of necklace presented as Berber or Amazigh necklace: while ‘Berber’ is the word almost everyone knows, ‘Amazigh’ is actually how its people prefer themselves referred to. I’ll go into the reasons behind that in another post: this article analyzes the meaning and history of this beautiful piece of jewellery.

This huge, gorgeous Berber necklace was worn in the Draa Valley, Morocco. As you see in the gallery above (click the image to enlarge it), it’s made of eight strands of large branch coral beads and a central arrangement of chunky amber beads flanked by shells.⁠

This necklace was worn by a married woman. As its individual components, notably the sizeable pieces of branch coral and amber, are quite expensive, the necklace was also a show of wealth. [1]

Draa Valley necklace: amulets and beads

Between the coral abundance is a treasure of other beads. Amazonite, agate, glass, shell and smaller amber beads are strung in with a variety of beads and pendants in low grade silver: there are coins, cones, cornerless cubes, bell-shaped beads and a few amulets.⁠ [2]

The amber holds several meanings: this is where you’ll find specific information about the hidden powers of amber in Berber jewellery. Amazonite beads were believed to be associated with fertility, because of its green colour: an association found with many green stones.

Ancient trade beads are a testimony to the long history of trade and commerce in the region. As are the polished brown and green agate beads, that were imported on a large scale from Idar Oberstein in Germany.

And it holds several low-grade silver beads, amulets and pendants. These are lovely in their variety, and are randomly strung in with the rest: this is where you’ll find the personal preference of the wearer reflected most closely, as these are the items that she would have selected herself.

She may have collected various beads and pendants over time. They may also come from other pieces of jewellery that had fallen apart – and that is another factor to consider when looking at these necklaces: they fell apart at some point during their lives.

Berber jewellery from the Draa Valley: its many lives

This piece is still in its original stringing. But what does that really mean? I think it’s important to consider that this is the last stringing with the purpose of wearing it within the culture itself.

‘Last’, because during its life, it would have been restrung multiple times anyway. Its threads would become worn after years of beads weighing them down. Eventually one of them would break, and then it would be restrung. That was also the perfect occasion to add some more beads and other pendants. So, with several actions of restringing, which ‘incarnation’ is the original one…? That’s why I think looking at its purpose is an important factor in determining whether stringing is ‘original’.

Another indicator of ‘original stringing’ is its closure, so let’s go into that next.
⁠

" Necklaces have several lives: they are restrung multiple times, each time with tiny differences to its arrangement and composition'

Draa Valley necklace details: its closure

What is even more remarkable about this Amazigh necklace is that it still has its original closure: the two large tassels of woolen cords. These are quite heavy themselves, and form a perfect counterweight to the weight of the beads.⁠

They are held together by a woolen band. Like a scrunchy in your hair, that is what keeps the two heavy tassels together. The idea behind the tassels is not to knot them, that would be uncomfortable to wear, but to simply tie them closely together.

There are other cultural reasons to avoid knots in general: you’ll find those here.

You may find similar necklaces outfitted with a simple knot-and-loop closure: that is a later alteration to make these necklaces more suited to the taste of collectors who’d want to wear them. And that brings me to their afterlife.

Draa Valley necklace: its afterlife

Necklaces like these, in their original setup, are becoming increasingly rare. Many of these have been broken up in the past to be sold, as its individual coral, amazonite and amber beads may fetch a handsome price.

You’ll also find modern arrangements reflecting the style of the Draa Valley, sometimes put together with antique elements and sometimes with entirely newly made beads.

Some of these are used in traditional dance performances (you don’t want your antique piece snapping apart on stage, after all) both in Morocco itself and abroad. As such, the design of this necklace is still communicating the cultural identity of its wearers, and I think that is a beautiful thing!

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References

[1] Berber Women of Morocco, Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent 2014, p. 73.

[2] See the chapter Jewelry Art by Cynthia Becker in Berber Women of Morocco, Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent 2014.

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

100 jewellery blogs

100 jewellery blogs

by | Opinion

Jewellery blogging

100 jewellery blogs

Published Dec 29, 2023

This piece is the 100th blog on jewellery! Would you believe it? Time truly flies. A lot can happen in 100 blog articles, and so I wanted to share more of personal perspective on the things I learned during these 100 blogs on jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa. Settle in for the good, the bad and the amazing of blogging on traditional jewellery!

Collecting silver jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa

But first, a little on how I got into this! I started collecting jewellery back in 1995. At that time, I was a student of Egyptology, and I loved hanging out in Cairo’s Khan el-Khalili to look for old jewellery. It still feels like yesterday, even though it’s almost 30 years ago.

Now in those days, the Internet was not what it was today. Social media were not invented yet (I know! Shocker!), having a personal email address was new, and any information still traveled slowly. These were the days that a computer was a big plastic box that could handle all of 250 MB, most households still had one telephone in a fixed place, and when I went to Egypt to work on an excavation, chances were my family would receive my letters only after I had returned.

That went both ways: the most exciting part of working on an excavation was heading out to Cairo once a week, and check if letters from friends and family had been delivered.

So that tells you two things: yes, I am that old, and there was very little reliable info on jewellery around when I just started out. The excitement when a new book appeared on jewellery was just as intense as that feeling of joy when a handwritten letter had found its way to me in Cairo – wow! Something new to read!

A silver amulet container from Egypt, placed on handwritten Arabic magic squares

Blogging on traditional jewellery from North Africa and the Middle East

How different things are today – there is so much out there on all things jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia! At just a click of a mouse or a tap of the finger, there is a world of images and info available that I only could have dreamed of all those years ago. To me, it is absolutely fantastic to browse Pinterest-boards and chat with people from all over the world through social media who share that passion for traditional jewellery.

But…that is also where the flip side is, I think: in the lightning speed with which information travels the Internet and our ever-shortening attention span. When I do online research, I come across the same tidbits of info repeated again and again. Absolutely, there is so much interesting stuff out there! That also includes tons of content that is copied and shared over and over again, but not necessarily always true or even reliable. More, yes, but not always better.

Jewellery blogging: all the good

That is partly why I decided to start a blog. The other reason, of course, is that I just love talking about jewellery! And, as it happens, I also really, really love to write.

By starting my own blog, I could write about everything I find fascinating or beautiful about traditional jewellery – and that is a lot. A hundred posts on jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa, and it feels like I’m just getting started!

The absolute amazing part of blogging is the number of people I have ‘met’ through blog posts or social media posts. I could never have dreamed of the community I found simply by writing about jewellery, and starting a blog honestly is one of the best decisions I ever made.

Nerding out in the notes: jewellery blogging with transparency

Blogging provides me with the opportunity to add solid information to the digital world. And one of the things I learned in the past 100 jewellery blogs is that I prefer to include references. At the end of most of my blog articles, you will find the exact place where I got specific information from. If it’s available online, I include a link to it. If someone told me, I am clear about that, too.

I want to be as transparent as possible on where I get my information from. Providing clear references helps all of us with our own research. That’s why referencing is standard practice in published articles, and I don’t see why I should not apply the same to blog posts. You can always skip them, they’re at the bottom end for a reason!

Detail of coins and beads on a bright red Palestinian headdress

Blogging on jewellery collection management

There is a segment to jewellery collecting that does not get all that much attention online: how to actually manage a collection of traditional jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa? There are practical aspects to consider like cleaning silver, storing and documenting, but what to do with your jewellery collection later in life? Sell it, donate it…and how to go about that?

And then there are the ethical and legal aspects to consider. What about coral beads, ivory bangles, excavated beads, archaeological jewellery…can these just be bought and sold? And what is this whole provenance-discussion about, specifically for collectors of traditional jewellery from the Middle East and Southwest Asia?

I decided to blog about those practical things, too, and over the past 100 blogs I learned that these tips for jewellery collectors are among the articles that you refer back to most often. I’m really glad to be of help in this way!

Sigrid van Roode, wearing a summer dress, reading books on Tuareg jewellery

Blogging about jewellery books

Even though the digital world is amazing, I adore books. There are a lot more of those since I first started out, too, and one of things I love doing the most is reviewing the latest books on jewellery and related fields for you. Opening that package straight from the publisher still brings the same level of excitement as 30 years ago! I guess I’m one of the biggest book nerds you’ll ever meet.

Over the past 100 jewellery book blogs, I learned that you like these posts: they are appreciated by people who are on the fence on whether or not to buy a particular jewellery book, and by people looking for titles they might enjoy.

Here as well, I found that being transparent adds to the value of the blog: I’ll always mention whether I received a book as an advanced reading copy, or if I purchased it myself, whether it was gifted by the author, or any other way a book may have found its way to me.

The tarnish on jewellery blogging: copyright things

Blogging sounds simple, but it is not the marshmallow-hued world of sipping latte’s in fashionable coffeerooms that the Internet would have you think of: a lot of work goes into these articles. Especially if you’d like your photos to look nice and your texts to be referenced. Writing blog posts just takes serious time.

And then suddenly, there is that first realization that someone has copied your work, copyright policy nothwithstanding. That is a reality I learned in 100 blog posts, too.

Here are some examples of things that actually happened. Please forgive me if the following sounds blunt! But I promised you the bad, too, so here we go.

I’ve had some of my photos decapitated to cut off the ‘Bedouin Silver’-text (granted, the text was at the bottom of the image, so it’s more like defooted) – and in doing so, part of the object on the photo was removed, too. It’s beyond me how anyone could want to pass off a photo as their own so badly they would purposefully damage the image itself, too.

I’ve had people copy my social media posts and present it as their own. It happens a lot with the texts I wrote with those posts: these I regularly find literally copy-pasted into online sellers’ descriptions; without acknowledging that it was not them who researched and wrote those lines.

A special shout-out at this point to jewellery dealers with online galleries of traditional jewellery: I know your images are getting snatched, too, and presented in shady online shops as if they were for sale. I feel you!

But: it gets even crazier. I’ve seen people give talks in which their presentation sheets were made of my photos and texts, but without a single credit line. That has happened to other researchers I know, too, one of which actually attended a talk made largely with her material. It made for a super awkward Q&A.

To be completely honest with you, it still hurts each and every time I see my work copied and shared without proper credit. I can’t think of another label to put on that feeling. I don’t mind the sharing itself (on the contrary, I’d say!) but please do me the courtesy of acknowledging my time and effort.

Well, that was it for the bad! After writing 100 posts though, I can confidently say that the good outweighs everything else. So…

…another 100 jewellery blogs coming up!

All of the appreciation, friendship and community (as well as the occasional copyright infringements) I get, signal one thing: apparently, this type of jewellery blog is just the thing people are looking for.

I honestly love receiving your feedback, the friendships that have formed over the years and the lively jewellery discussions I have had. I’ll be blogging away on this end, and I’m excited to continue contributing to the jewellery community of collectors, researchers and scholars.

Another 100 jewellery blogs…? Coming right up!

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Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Ancient jewellery: Lebanon

Ancient jewellery: Lebanon

by | Cultures & People

Jewellery history of the Levant

Ancient jewellery from Lebanon

Published Dec 27, 2023

What is the history of traditional jewellery in North Africa and the Middle East? Historical context and cultural heritage have left their traces in the traditional jewellery worn in countries as we know them today, and so this blog series takes us back to the distant past. In this blog, I will look at jewellery history in Lebanon in very broad strokes: what is the history of Lebanese jewellery?

Lebanon: early jewellery history

The geographical area which is now Lebanon is, historically, part of the larger Syro-Palestinian cultural sphere. That is reflected in its ancient jewellery: it shows continuity and connections. One of the earliest occurrences of adornment and the production of adornment in Western Asia is found in Lebanon.

A few kilometers from Beirut lies Ksar ‘Akil, a rock shelter where people lived some 40,000 years ago. These people created beads of shell, and not just any shells: they were very particular about their choices. They liked to mix very white and colourful shells. And it doesn’t end there: they selected shells specifically to create ornaments. So, it’s not creativity with left-over shells from food production, as you might think, but a very selective process to gather exactly those shells they wanted. [1]

These Lebanese shell beads are among the oldest ornaments in the world, and are instrumental in understanding the development of cognitive capacities of humans: it is by decorating ourselves that we show awareness of how others see us.

Lebanon in the Bronze Age: beads of history

It is beads again that tell us about long distance trade in the early Bronze Age, around 3000 – 2500 BCE. In Tell Fadous-Kfarabida, in the north of Lebanon, a small urban center flourished. Here, inscribed cylindrical beads were found. These are seals, that were used to sign administrative documents: rolling the bead over wet clay would leave the impression of the image on the seal. They tell us a lot about organization and administration. A gold ring with a lapis lazuli cylinder seal, shown above, was possibly found in the city of Byblos: I am showing it to you next to a cylinder seal, possibly from Iraq, to give you an idea of such a bead.

The materials used to make beads are as informative about long distance trade. Seven unassuming steatite beads reveal a trade network that reached as far as the Indus Valley. On the site, no evidence for bead production was found, making it likely that these beads were traded. And here again, their colours seems to have been significant: it’s the type of steatite that turns white when burned that seems to have been preferred. [2]

Bronze beads from Lebanon

In the Middle Bronze Age, cast bronze beads have been found on various sites in Lebanon. Here again, we see how Lebanon formed part of a wider world in the Levant: the Lebanese beads have been created using the same metallurgical practices such as alloy composition and techniques used as elsewhere in Southwest Asia.

What metallurgical analyses of the Lebanese beads also reveal is the practice of reuse: lead has been added to the mix in some ornaments. Did the people who made these beads have difficulty accessing tin and copper, or could they simply not afford it? [3]

Byblos: a Mediterranean trade hub

The city of Byblos was a major trading port on the Mediterranean and received ships from all over the sea, as well as trade routes that came from further inland. An example is the trading ship that sank off the coast of Turkey: among its cargo were thousands of beads and gold jewellery that came from the southern Levant. This ship would also have traded in the port of Byblos.

In the city of Byblos, a gold disc was found which shows us an example of cultural exchange around 4,000 years ago. The workmanship is Mesopotamian in technique, but not in execution. It is the disc shown in the gallery above: click to enlarge the photos.

Perhaps this is the work of a local craftsman, who learned to work with granulation in the style of current-day Iraq. The disc is unique and no other parallels for the use of granulation in a similar item exist. While Byblos has revealed quite a lot of Egyptian or Egyptianizing jewellery, this piece is neither.

Byblos: Egyptian influences

How did Egyptian jewellery end up in Byblos? That is because the region that is now Lebanon was located within the Egyptian sphere of influence for much of the Bronze and early Iron Age. The Egyptian court would send gifts to other kings, and as the collection in the National Museum in Beirut shows, these were of very high quality. The kings of Byblos were considered important partners.

Jewellery in the Egyptian style became very popular. It was also preferred by the non-elite, as the spread of relatively low-quality scarabs made of amethyst shows: these have been found throughout the southern Levant. [4]

In the gallery above (click to enlarge the photos), you will see a few examples of this cultural exhange: amethyst scarabs in gold rings and bracelets, and the continuation of the ancient Egyptian Eye of Horus-symbol in jewellery from Lebanon.

From Lebanon across the Mediterranean: Phoenician jewellery

Trade in the Mediterranean world was dominated by the Phoenicians during the first millennium. They operated from Lebanon. From their main ports in Beirut, Byblos, Sidon and Tyre they established colonies throughout North Africa and Europe. Carthage, in current-day Tunisia, is one of their most famous cities which would become an empire of itself.

Because of the origins of the Phoenicians in current-day Lebanon, Phoenician jewellery is heavily influenced by that of ancient Egypt, too: you will find lots of scarabs and other Egyptian motifs in Phoenician jewellery. These are combined with other cultural influences, like that of the Aegean world.

Very specific for Phoenician jewellery are the famous face-beads: these have been found widely throughout the Mediterranean, for example also on Sardinia. A few examples are in the image above: Phoenician jewellery requires its own article, which I will add soon!

Roman jewellery in Lebanon

When Lebanon was part of the Roman Empire, here, too, Roman jewellery became popular. Funerary stelae show images of men and women dressed in Roman fashion, and excavations of Roman cemeteries brought Roman jewellery to light. [5]

And that was not just for ordinary people: the gods, too, were believed to be adorned with jewellery. The arm of a statue found in Beirut was shown with no less than thirteen (!) bracelets on its upper arm. This was a statue of the god Jupiter Heliopolitanus, who, as supreme deity, needed opulent jewellery to reflect his status. The impression shown above shows the splendour with which divinities were imagined. [6]

Ancient jewellery of Lebanon: a cultural treasure

The wide variety in ancient jewellery from Lebanon testifies to millennia of cultural exhange, innovation and trade. If you’d like to see more of this in person, I highly recommend a visit to the National Museum in Beirut: there is much more to admire than one blog article can accommodate!

This blog will continue with the traditional jewellery of Lebanon.

This is an updated, adapted and expanded version of a blog I wrote earlier for the Zay Initiative.

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References

[1] Kuhn, S. et al. 2001. Ornaments of the earliest Upper Paleolithic: New insights from the Levant, in: PNAS 2001, vol 98 (13), pp. 7641-7646.

[2] Damick, A. & M. Woodworth 2015. Steatite beads from Tell Fadous-Kfarabida: A case study in early Bronze Age technology in Northern Coastal Lebanon, in: Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports 3, pp. 603-614.

[3] Morr, Z. el & M. Mödlinger 2014. Middle Bronze Age Metal Artefacts and Metallurgical Practices at the Sites of Tell Arqa, Mougharet el-Hourriyeh, Yanouh and Kharihi in Lebanon, in: Levant 46:1 pp 27-42.

[4] David, A. 2019. Uninscribed Amethyst Scarabs from the Southern Levant, in: Bulletin of the American Schools of Oriental Research 381, pp. 57-81.

[5] Jong, L. de 2010. Performing Death in Tyre: the Life and Afterlife of a Roman Cemetery in the Province of Syria, in: American Journal of Archaeology Vol 114 no. 4, pp. 597-630.

[6] B. Fowlkes-Childe & M. Seymour, 2019, The World Between Empires. Art and Identity in the Ancient Middle East, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, p. 126. I would like to thank Tania Zaven of the DGA for providing me with this reference and showing me this fragment in the National Museum of Beirut.

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

A Palestinian wuqaya

A Palestinian wuqaya

by | Objects

jewellery of Palestine

Traditional Palestinian headdress: wuqaya

Published Dec 20, 2023

This is a beautiful headdress from Palestine, called a wuqaya. It was worn in the area of Jerusalem and Ramallah. [1] It would be placed under the headveil, with the coin fringe showing on the forehead.⁠

Wuqaya: design and wear

In the image above (click to enlarge it) you’ll see how it is designed: a more or less square piece of cloth with a central embroidered panel. Below the chin, a series of chains and other coins dangle. The headdress has a beaded border in red and blue, and a double row of coins.⁠ According to Weir, this headdress was probably worn by girls [2].

Wuqaya: the coin fringe

The coins on this headdress may tell us a lot about the wearer herself, and the world she lived in.

The number of coins usually reflects the wealth of the wearer. That is because the silver in these coins used to be what made them valuable. From this tradition, the use of displaying coins became standard.

Also when the wearer was not that affluent: all of the coins on this particular headdress are imitation coins in brass. Note the detail with which the coin fringe begins. Starting in the centre, the coins fall in two directions: a red fabric detail covers the part where they part ways. It also ensures the first two coins stay in place.

Brass coins for the headdress of an unmarried girl make sense: she would not have had a large fortune of her own yet. This would become hers upon marriage: learn how that works here.

‘Brass coins on the headdress of an unmarried girl make sense’

Palestinian wuqaya: the chainwork

This particular wuqaya also shows chainwork. This is attached so it would fall below the chin, not unlike the chin-chain from Bethlehem presented in this post. This seems to be a later addition to this piece: the chainwork is irregular, mismatched and seems to have been added rather haphazardly.  

None of the headdresses published seem to have such an addition: it may come from another type of headdress, and used as embellishment of this one.

Its addition is also strange in light of who would be wearing this headdress. Such a set of chainwork is usually reserved for headdresses of married women. They would carry silver coins and display her wealth. This wuqaya however was worn by girls who had not yet acquired such wealth.

A German token coin in Palestine

The central pendant on the chin-chain carries a German text. You’ll see it in more detail on the photo above: click to enlarge it. ‘Spielmarke’ means a token. But this pendant is not as random as it might seem. On its other side, it shows a double-headed eagle. This resembles many actual coins from the period, notably the Maria Theresia Thaler.

The Maria Theresia Thaler was among the most popular coins in the Middle East and far beyond, because of its guaranteed high silver content. You will find these coins on many pieces of jewellery throughout North Africa and Southwest Asia.

Around the border however, it reads ‘Neurenberger Spiel und Rechenpfennig’. These were exported on a large scale to the Ottoman world. As they were much valued substitutes for actual coins, you will find many of these on dresses, veils and other objects of personal adornment.⁠⁠

The wuqaya: between girl and woman

According to Weir [3] this headdress was worn by girls who had reached puberty. That was an age on which girls would marry: in the area around Hebron/al Khalil, a large coin such as a Maria Theresia Thaler would be attached to the wuqaya to indicate the girl was ready to get married.

This headdress would accompany a girl during her transition from unmarried girl into married woman: an important step in her life’s journey.

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Reference1

[1] Völger, G. (ed) 1987. Pracht und Geheimnis. Kleidung und Schmuck aus Pälästina und Jordanien, p. 277.

[2] Weir, S. 1989. Palestinian Costume. The Trustees of the British Museum, London, p. 177.

[3] Weir, S. 1989. Palestinian Costume. The Trustees of the British Museum, London, p. 176.

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Perfume jewels: meskia

Perfume jewels: meskia

by | Objects

Ottoman splendour

Perfume jewels: the meskia pendant

Updated Feb 19, 2024

In the Maghreb, notably in Algeria and Tunisia, spectacular containers called meskia are worn. What are these, what is their history and why are they important? In this post, I’m exploring these delicate and sumptuous jewels.

A stunning gold meskia from Algeria, with pearls, rubies, emaralds and diamonds.
A beautiful gold meskia from Tunisia.

What is a meskia?

A meskia is a small, delicate pendant with an open worked lid, which contained fragrances. It is usually made of precious materials, such as gold, and decorated with gemstones and pearls. Its name, meskia, is derived from its content: it would hold musk, but was also used for other scented substances. [1]

These containers are relatively small and very opulent in their decoration. That tells us more about the importance attached to these jewels. So, what is that importance?

Meskia: fragrance and faith

Like its name suggests, the contents of boxes like these would have been musk. Musk is an important and popular scent, as it was said to be the favourite fragrance of the Prophet. In that respect, it carries a religious association.

Musk was a scent that was imported into the Mediterranean in Late Antiquity: the Persians had access to the trade with Central Asia. [2] This is where the musk deer lived, from whose glands the scent was first extracted.

Through the association with the Prophet, musk became extremely popular and was imported on a massive scale. That popularity continues until today. Musk is now largely synthetically produced, and you will find it in many shapes and forms throughout the Islamic world.

Style and execution: Ottoman luxury

The opulence of the meskia reflects its origin in the Ottoman period. The Ottoman Empire stretched across the Mediterranean, and included large parts of what is now Algeria and Tunisia. The splendour of the Ottoman court in current-day Istanbul traveled with Ottoman dignitaries, merchants and craftspeople to all corners of the empire. Here, it continued to inspire both the local elite and craftsmen who catered to a wealthy clientele.

" The meskia is a sign of status: both the container and its contents are precious and expensive"

Differences in meskia styles

Not all meskia-pendants are the same: their shape is similar, but there are differences in their execution that are particular to the regions where they have been made and worn. [3]

The Algerian meskia shown above (click to enlarge it) is made of ajour-cut sheet gold. The box itself is decorated with a rim of pearls. Its lid has been set with a border of rubies around a large central emerald. The floral design of the lid shows accents of small rubies and emeralds, and a few diamonds set in the silver leaves.

The Tunisian meskia (click to enlarge it) is made in a different technique: its lid is executed in fine filigree. The dangles of pearls and irregularly shaped precious stones serve to convey that same luxurious status.

Meskia: an urban jewel

Wearing a meskia has long been an urban tradition. [4] This is where the wealthier people lived: rich merchants, affluent families and of course the administrative and military Ottoman elite. They had access to the best craftsmen, as well as to precious stones used to decorated these perfume containers. The content of these containers was expensive as well. Wearing a meskia was a sign of wealth: not only because of the container, but because of the expensive perfume in it, too.

Outside of the main urban centres, fragrance was worn as well, but it took other forms such as the scented paste beads and silver perfume containers.

See more about those scented paste beads from North Africa in this article!

The meskia today: an important wedding jewel

The meskia is still part and parcel of wedding attire. Algerian and Tunisian brides wear elaborate necklaces made of scented paste beads, rows of pearls and a meskia container. As these jewels are quite costly, they can be rented for the day from the wedding planner. Through their combination of heritage, identity and faith, they add an important level of festivity to the wedding. It’s a small, but highly significant piece of jewellery!

Collage of a smiling woman from Egypt, wearing gold earrings, with dewy rose petals, jasmine and lilies. A bright yellow text box reads 'Scents of the Middle East'

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Explore the world of fragrance in the course Scents of the Middle East!

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References

[1] Eudel, Dictionnaire des Bijoux de l‘Afrique du Nord, under ‘meskia’, notes that ‘mesk’ is also a word used to indicate a leather pouch in which jewellery was stored. This shares the significance of a container designed to hold precious content.

[2] King, A.H. 2007. The musk trade and the Near East in the Early Medieval Period. PhD-thesis Indiana University, p. 239.

[3] As already noted by Eudel in his Dictionnaire des Bijoux de l‘Afrique du Nord, under ‘meskia’.

[4] Akam, F & A. Hanafi, 2003. La mode Ottomane dans les bijoux citadins, in: Bijoux & parures de’Algèrie, Somogy Editions d’Art, p. 37-41.

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Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.