Silberschmuck aus Nubien

Silberschmuck aus Nubien

Collection of Wolfgang and Sibylle Mayer

Silberschmuck aus Nubien

Silver jewellery from Nubia is a category of jewellery that has not received all that much attention throughout the years, and so a new book on this beautiful heritage is very welcome! Silberschmuck aus Nubien is devoted to the private collection of Sibylle and Wolfgang Mayer.

This collection was built up over decades by Wolfgang and Sibylle Mayer, a German couple living and working on the island of Elephantine in the south of Egypt, opposite the town of Aswan, and elsewhere in Egypt. The book opens with the ‘how’ of collecting: I’m always interested in what triggered collectors to fall in love with a certain type of jewellery, and here it is living in, and falling in love with, a culture. Having been in Aswan myself many times, both for work and for holiday sojourns, reading this book brought back so many memories.

I very much appreciated that it looks beyond jewellery itself to its people: the first chapters introduce life in Nubia briefly, and describe the fundamental changes in both the countryside itself and their impact on its inhabitants as a result of the Aswan Dam. Much of Nubia was flooded permanently and people were forced to relocate, which had an impact on lifestyle and thus on jewellery. Understanding that background is important to appreciating jewellery that belongs in it. Speaking of cultural background, I loved how the book also shows the decoration on not just jewellery, but on houses and utensils, too: jewellery is as much part of material culture as anything else.

The book itself is beautifully designed. Each chapter opens with a large black and white photograph of jewellery being worn, and then goes on to show a variety of silver jewellery that you will not find easily anywhere else. Bracelets, pendants, coin jewellery, anklets, earrings, nose rings, finger rings….in many forms and designs, as well as beautifully designed silver kohl needles. There are some truly remarkable pieces to be admired in this book: the imitation coin jewellery is very rare, as are several of the amulets shown.

Much of the collection was purchased in Aswan and in Cairo. That explains why there is a large body of jewellery in the book that is Egyptian, but not necessarily Nubian: zār jewellery. [1] The author explicitly states that he believes the majority of his collection may actually be from Middle and Lower Egypt (notably Cairo) [p. 75], and looking at the photos I agree that that is probably the case. The photographs of a zār included in this section are the same as featured in the book on zār by dr. el-Hadidi, or here on this website – which makes sense, as this is a most private event that is rarely photographed. The many examples of zār jewellery in this book are sometimes misidentified, but that does not diminish the value of the photographs: these pages will give you a great overview of the variety in zār pendants with spirit images!

The chapter on zār jewellery links more to Middle and Lower Egypt than to Nubia, but also within the earlier chapters there is a regional variety within Nubia itself that is not addressed. Nubia encompasses quite a large area, and the rings shown on pages 66-67 for example reflect that: there are rings present as worn by the coastal Rashayda tribes, but also from the Nile Valley villages. These regional varieties in jewellery remain unaddressed throughout the book. The bibliography does not mention the work of Griselda Tayib [2] (but frankly, that is really hard to obtain) or Imogen Thurbon [3]: both focus on Sudan, which also includes parts of Nubia. But, as the author writes, collecting with a scholarly goal was never the plan [p. 106] – this is a collection built from the heart, and that passion shines through in every page.

The collection also shows the cultural influences that you’d expect in a trade city as well connected as Aswan: for centuries, trade routes converged here. The schematic drawing of the rosette, which is a staple of Nubian jewellery, as shown on page 27 is actually drawn after a pendant from Oman – but one that ended up in Nubia and fit right in. One of the bracelets on page 45 is from Yemen, and several rings shown are worn on either side of the Red Sea: there is so much that ended up in the souks of Aswan (and also Cairo, of course) that bears testimony to this long history of trade and connection!

And what I found the most wonderful thing to read are the future plans for this collection! When you have been following this blog for a while, you know my greatest concern is not what is happening to jewellery today, but what will become of it in the future. (and if you’re new to this blog: there is more about that here). What will happen to collected jewellery when its collectors are no longer there? How will it continue to speak for the people who created it? For this collection, there is a clear plan in place: the couple have promised large parts of their collection to a yet to be realized museum on the history of Nubia in Wadi Halfa. Seeing this heritage return home eventually, where it will be integrated in the many stories of living and working in this part of the world, is simply inspiring.

Silberschmuck aus Nubien is a great visual reference book for anyone interested in jewellery from southern Egypt and northern Sudan! The beautiful photography allows you to zoom in on details, and the collection is just stunning. This book does much to spark the enthousiasm for Nubian silver jewellery and to keep it visible and admired: particularly with a relatively unknown category of traditional jewellery, that is no small feat. And if you do not read German, I know you will love it for its photographs and the wide variety of jewellery alone!

Silberschmuck aus Nubien. Ein fast verlorenes Kulturgut. By Wolfgang Mayer, 2021.

Full colour, 111 pages, in German. Published by Edition esefeld & traub, Stuttgart.

Available with the publisher and via Amazon.

The book was purchased in the museum shop of the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim.

Never miss out on a new book review? Join the Jewellery List and have them sent to your inbox!

Looking for background information on your jewellery? Have a look at the courses – there’s so much available on the world of the jewellery you love!

More tips on collection management? Check this free resource or download the e-book!

References

[1] Full disclaimer: I’m close to finishing my PhD-research into zār jewellery and as such have seen more of them and read more about these than can be reasonably expected of anyone else who wants to keep their sanity. When it’s published, hopefully in the near future, this link will refer to it: the collection shown in Silberschmuck aus Nubien is absolutely wonderful and informative regardless!

[2] Griselda Tayib, Regional Costumes of Sudan: see more here

[3] Imogen Thurbon runs the informative website Women’s Literacy Sudan: see this post for example on hair braiding in Sudan

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

A Life In Jewels

A Life In Jewels

Liber Amicorum for Diana Scarisbrick

A Life in Jewels

What do you get a world-renowned jewellery historian for her birthday? The gift of knowledge: a gorgeous book with essays on a wide variety of jewellery topics by her friends! That is what A Life in Jewels is: a book to honour Diana Scarisbrick on her 94th birthday.

And it is a treasure! Nineteen chapters deal with European jewellery studies in all timeframes and from a variety of angles. As these are all essays from a jewellery historian point of view, instead of an art historian perspective, each contribution is an inspiring example of the stories that can be told when jewellery is placed in context. The oldest period included is the Roman period, where we read about the power of the gaze on Roman imperial gems. Staring is impolite pretty much all over the world, and in this essay you’ll read more about what the Romans thought of those staring eyes of tiny carved portraits. Added bonus for me is that several of the gems shown are now in the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, The Netherlands, so I can walk over and see them in person! The next essay zooms in on classical (and neoclassical) gems as well, but from a collectors’ point of view: what can we learn about a collector by studying both their collections and the way they assembled them?

A late Medieval type of jewel is addressed in the essay on heart-shaped brooches from the 15th century, a category of jewellery that has received little coherent attention. I really appreciated how this chapter outlines possibilities for further research on these beautiful pieces: if anyone is looking for a research topic, this is your cue! One of my favourite chapters is the essay on jewellery theft in early modern London: this reads like nothing short of a crime novel – and also presents several examples of how difficult it is to identify jewels based on a description from a different timeframe: what on earth is ‘a gem like a pigeon’? (p. 63)

Closer to home for me was the essay on jewellery in two portraits of Sophia de Vervou: these are located in The Netherlands, and I wished I had read this essay back when I first saw them! Every bejeweled detail is unpicked, explained and placed in the context of other information surviving about Sophia’s life, down to the collar of her dog – this essay brings the woman on the portraits to life. Claims to power are expressed in jewellery in the chapter on the Stuart court in Rome, where medallions with portraits of throne pretenders James and Charles (yes, that’s the Bonnie Prince) were created by Italian craftsmen and sold to supporters.

Jewellery also serves as memory of notable events, as the essay on commemorative rings illustrates: rings commemorating the storming of the Bastille, which launched the French Revolution, or patriotic rings from Poland and Hungary, are just a few examples that carry world history and tell us more about the allegiances of its wearers. And there is so much more in this book: a portrait of Lord Petersham wearing a bat pendant, the gorgeous rings in the Musee Carnavalet, the sapphires of Queen Victoria, the close relation between illuminated manuscripts and the enameled jewellery by Falize, down to modern design and gardens in jewellery, via the French crown jewels and a splendid Chaumet tiara…in every essay, you’ll find a new angle to place jewellery in context. The only chapters that were difficult to read for me are the two contributions in Italian – but for a glimpse on unpublished gems and cameos, I’ll happily whisk out my dictionary!

Obviously, there is much to be learned from the individual chapters, but its real power to me is the joy of researching jewellery and sharing findings that is almost palpable on every single page. All contributions breathe enthusiasm for both the topic at hand and the person this book is dedicated to. And indeed, we owe Diana Scarisbrick a great debt for her never-ending passion for jewellery research – she still has yet another book in the works, and I can only hope to be blessed with that same energy should I ever be reaching her age. The book contains her impressive bibliography as well, which I’m sure will get you looking for several titles to add to your library! The volume is beautifully illustrated throughout with large, full-colour photographs.

If you are involved with European jewellery in any way, as a curator, collector, scholar or dealer, you will want to own this fabulous birthday present: this gift of knowledge to the woman who inspired so many scholars of jewellery is a beautiful gift to yourself.

A Life In Jewels. Liber Amicorum in honour of Diana Scarisbrick. Edited by Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, Sandra Hindman and Carla van de Puttelaar, 2022.

Full colour, 279 pages, in English, with contributions in French and Italian. Published by Ad Ilissum/Paul Holberton, with the gracious assistance of Les Enluminures.

Available with the publisher.

The book was received as review copy from the publisher.

More book recommendations on personal adornment and history…? Click here to see my other picks for you!

Never miss out on a new book review? Join the Jewellery List and have them sent to your inbox!

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

The Mineral and the Visual

The Mineral and the Visual

Precious Stones in Medieval Secular Culture

The Mineral and the Visual

Stones have always held meaning for people. They were believed to hold certain powers, worn as amulet or talisman, and they were even thought to cure diseases. The Mineral and the Visual explores the role of precious stones during the Middle Ages, and particularly in a non-religious context. And it is a fascinating read!

The Mineral and the Visual centers around the notion that precious stones in the Middle Ages were looked upon decidedly different than we now are accustomed to. They were not merely decorative embellishments in pieces belonging to the realm of what we now regard as ‘decorative arts’, but they represented a world of art, meaning and science. They were powerful in and of themselves, and studying them was a highly valued discipline that required literacy and knowledge. Contrary to our times, where we select precious stones based on their financial value and appearance, for the medieval purpose mattered what a stone could do (p. 6). That is hardly a new concept; the agency of stones is of prime importance among for example the Bedouin [1], but here it is applied to medieval objects.

This book approaches this agency of stones through three case-studies: bejeweled crowns, illustrated texts on stones (the so-called lapidaries) and illustrated travel accounts. And in these three themes, a multifaceted, brightly coloured world emerges of living stones, knowledge about those stones, and trade and commerce in acquiring these stones. Before I take you through the book, here are a few observations. First off, the emphasis of the book is on medieval use of stones in the West, as is clearly mentioned on the back cover. Of course, there is attention for the intersection with the Islamic world, for example in the part on illustrated lapidaries where knowledge exchange is touched upon, but the geographical scope of the book is mainly Western Europe. Where sources from the Islamic world and beyond are used, this is to confirm European practices. As the trade in gemstones itself, but notably also the ideas and beliefs associated with these have always spanned continents, that half the story is left out is something to be aware of as reader. Within that European perspective, the emphasis seems to be on the German-speaking world, which narrows it down further. An example is how the German language is mentioned as recognizing ‘the gender-neutral and class-specific conmingling of human and mineal, for it links Edelmann and Edelfrau to Edelstein…’ (p. 14) – I’m no linguist, but the use of ‘edel’ with objects or notions deemed noble seems to me not limited to people and stones and not specific to the German language, either. Early medieval Anglo-Saxon names such as Aethelflaed ‘noble beauty’ and Aethelred ‘noble counsel’ employ the same form, after all. And second, be advised that this is an academic study, not a publication for a wider audience: I fear the language used may discourage non-academic readers, which is too bad, as there is so much this book offers. Having said that: onwards to the world of stones!

The first part presents the power of bejeweled medieval crowns. We expect royalty to bedazzle and shine, and that was no different for the Middle Ages: kings and queens were covered in jewellery and precious materials. But whereas nowadays that is more of an expression of status already present, in the Middle Ages the use of precious stones was what created that status in the first place. I found that a fascinating notion: the stones themselves have the power to imbue a person with royalty and its accompanying virtues. The few remaining medieval crowns are discussed and analyzed, and placed in their historic context. Here, I could not help but wonder in how far we might interpret crowns as ‘secular’ given the close, inseparable power of royalty and church in the periods under discussion, even with the definition of secular given on p. 10. The 26 early medieval votive crowns from Guarrazar, Spain, for example have been left out of this book. These are excellent examples of the continuation of Byzantine styles and its gem use, and it would be interesting to see if the theory developed by the author on the function of the Leitstein on crowns is also applicable to votive crowns.

In the second part, the author adds another layer to the reality of living, powerful stones, and that is what contemporary literature tells us about knowledge of these stones and their powers. Lapidaries are an encyclopedia of sorts, presenting knowledge about stones, and they have existed from Antiquity onwards. During the Islamic Middle Ages, many works including lapidaries from the classical world, but also from Buddhist and Hindu libraries as well as sources from further afield in Asia were translated into Arabic and improved upon. [2] It is in this context that I missed a closer examination of eastern sources in particular, as it would be intriguing to see if most lapidary knowledge was indeed based in Classical Antiquity, as the author assumes (p. 75, 83), or that there is evidence to the contrary. [3] This part traces the development of the lapidary in the Middle Ages and explores how knowledge about precious stones was interwoven with not only geology, but astrology, medicine and magic. I enjoyed the elaborate exploration into observation: not just names and colours, but also shades and hues of colours, the touch of stones and even their taste (I can’t help but wonder what stone tastes like rotten fish….!) (p. 99) The knowledge present in lapidaries is presented and discussed, and this journey into the medieval mind and the dangerous world it found itself in is fascinating – what to think of a coral table ornament hung with fossilized shark teeth set in gold, that guests could use to test their food for poison?

From what was originally learned, medical knowledge it is but a small step to magical knowledge, and that is where the knowledge contained in these scholarly books finds its way to a wider audience. An entire chapter is devoted to ancient carved gemstones such as cameos and intaglios: not only were these made of stones that had powers themselves, but they contained ancient engravings that carried meaning, too, and might be at odds with Christianity – here, lapidaries show traces of redaction, and the author walks us through the wider world behind those religious convictions and the developing of other viewpoints regarding the powers assumed to be present in stones.

The third part sees the expansion of all this knowledge into the practical realm: how to get one’s hands on these precious, and often foreign stones? Travel books share insights in how difficult it was to obtain stones mined in faraway lands – or so they would have us believe. The author elaborates on the idea that precious stones in the Middle Ages were coveted because of their powers and magical properties: travel accounts relaying knowledge seen and heard in distant lands confirmed that information on the one hand, and on the other hand emphasized the many dangers one had to face to acquire such precious stones, which in turn was reflected in their price. Here again, we see how world history is incredibly important. These jewels and precious materials could only be imported into Europe from Asia when trade routes were secure: both during the early Middle Ages and the later Middle Ages those circumstances were provided, first by the stability of the young Islamic realm and later by the Mongol conquests. Tracing merchant routes and traders’ inventories, this chapter paints a vivid picture of the gem trade in the Middle Ages.

I enjoyed this book. The way the author combines stones with ideas about those and the economics behind them over a longer period of time is innovative, and based on a richness in sources that is as dazzling as the medieval artworks discussed themselves. In doing so, she departs from general art historian books (which are often limited to one period only), and instead follows the long lines of history through several centuries. It would have made for an even more interesting read if the long geographical lines were also followed, but I do understand that would have presented a massive scope. By looking at precious stones through the eyes of the Medieval person, that person and their world comes to life. It’s a world that I would very much like to see presented in a more easily accessible book for a larger audience, too: there is so much to see and learn in this gem-studded, medieval world of wonders!

This is a fascinating read for curators and medievalists, but certainly also for gemmologists and jewellery historians interested in the agency and life of jewels and bejeweled objects.

The Mineral and the Visual. Precious Stones in Medieval Secular Culture. Brigitte Buettner, 2022

Colour/B&W, 256 pages, in English. Published by The Pennsylvania State University Press

The book was received as review copy from the publisher.

More book recommendations on personal adornment and history…? Click here to see my other picks for you!

Never miss out on a new book review? Join the Jewellery List and have them sent to your inbox!

References

[1] Popper-Giveon, A., Abu Rabia, A. & J. Ventura, From White Stone to Blue Bead: materialized beliefs and sacred beads among the Bedouin in Israel, in: Material Religion 10-2, pp. 132-135

[2] See Starr, S.F. 2013. Lost Enlightenment. Central Asia’s Golden Age from the Arab Conquest to Tamerlane. Princeton University Press

[2] As for example in Content, D. 2016. Ruby, Sapphire & Spinel: An Archaeological, Textual and Cultural Study. Part I. Text. Brepols, Turnhout

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Improve your search results

Improve your search results

how to improve your search results

Jewellery search terms

Updated Jan 18, 2024

There is a world of information available on jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as an abundance of photographs and pictures. But how to find these? Here are my two main tips, and a resource to help you get started!

Tip 1: expand your search beyond English

To get better search results, a first must is expanding your search terms beyond English. Let me explain (and of course I’ve got you covered!)

What are jewellery items actually called in Arabic or Tamazight, for example? Additionally, there is an entire world of German, French, Italian and Spanish museums and collectors, who have online databases available or share their items on platforms such as Pinterest. Getting a handle on these helps you expand your search results.

And there is a certain logic behind it, too.

Understanding the world behind search terms

Ethnic jewellery items have ended up in a variety of countries, and it’s here that expanding your search terms beyond English comes into view.

Not just because jewellery items were sold to Western people, but also because Western languages remained in use in occupied countries.

Egyptian antiquaries, their country for a long time having been controlled by the British, offer their wares mainly in English, while French is the predominant Western language in the Maghreb. So you see how even something as seemingly innocent as jewellery search terms reflects colonial structures, something to be actively aware of.

Knowing all this means you can start to use search terms strategically to gain an overview beyond language barriers that have since divided the information available on this jewellery. The pieces themselves have been scattered around several continents and their stories are told in different languages: adopting an integral approach in your research is essential.

Tip 2: spelling variations

The other trick is to take spelling variations into account. Say what?  I promise it makes total sense!

The original names of things are in another language entirely: Arabic, Tamazight, Hebrew…These languages have their own script and their own particular sounds. When they are rendered phonetically in a Western language, that invariably results in a gazillion ways to spell a word.

Take the Arabic word for ‘market’, for example. You’ll find it as souk, souq, suq, suk, soek, and so on. The well-known hand amulet is known as hamsa, khamsa, chamsa, khoumsa, khmissa….you get the idea.

Try fiddling around with spelling variations: you might be surprised at the difference in results!

And like I said… I’ve got you covered!

Search terms in 7 languages? Yes please!

To help you get started with exploring the world of jewellery in other languages, I have compiled a free resource of basic jewellery terms in 7 languages. With an introduction and pointers as to spelling variations, and a series of sheets to create your own cheat sheet. These will get you on your way to see search results that searching in one language would never present: find it here!

More tips for collectors? Browse them all here!

Regular updates and jewellery news delivered straight into your inbox? Join the Jewellery List and never miss out!

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Across Asia

Across Asia

the walters art museum

Across Asia and the Islamic World

At the heart of human history is interconnectivity. People, and as a result their cultures, have always been in contact, and the result of those connections are visible in material culture. The Walters Art Museum is kicking off a new series of publications focusing on their collections, and the first volume Across Asia and the Islamic World illustrates the interconnectivity on the Asian continent.

Across Asia and the Islamic World accompanies the installation of the new gallery Arts of Asia and the Islamic World. In the new gallery, visitors can experience the many cultural expressions from this vast continent in one space, and more importantly, see how they are all interrelated. That interconnectivity is also the focus of the book. As it is expressed in the foreword: ‘Movement is an intrinsic part of the life of most art objects.’ (p. 6). This simple statement is such an incredibly important notion, yet it is one that is often overlooked. We are somehow used to objects being static, in their movement but also in their identity.

The first essay in the book explores that notion in fascinating detail, using objects from the collection. On the first page of that essay, we travel along with a Qur’an made in India, moving to Istanbul a century later, and now on display in Baltimore. In each of its locations, it held significance and had a role to play. A jade chime from China, used at the court to instill heavenly harmony on earth, also reflects conquest and colonization (p. 17-18), and in a similar manner, this essay presents a variety of objects that each hold several stories. This is an essay that gets you thinking on how there is so much more to ‘a teapot from China’ if we actively start considering its biography. I appreciated in particular that the essay ends with a note on how further research continues to shed light on these complex, often tangled layers of identity and history in a single object.

The second essay explores spiritual and social movement as expressed by objects. An example is a jar with a carp swimming in a lotus pond. (Fig. 8) Nothing remarkable at first sight if you’re (like me) not a connoisseur of Chinese art, but the carp swimming upstream reflects the impossibility in Chinese society for people to move up on the social ladder: the desire to ‘make it’ is so very relatable today. This particular vase has an even deeper meaning, but instead of bringing you more spoilers here, I recommend you read this book yourself! The essay continues to compare and analyze objects associated with spiritual movement: in a person, through meditation and prayer, but also in the visible act of processions and pilgrimage.

The third and last essay delves into movement across the continent: of people, goods and ideas. I really enjoyed the introduction to this chapter, presenting a Chinese statue of a camel (Fig. 18): the most important animal in caravans, but originally an ‘import’ to China itself. Portable objects, like jewellery or personal amulets, show the length and width of traveling ideas: a Buddhist locket in Japan, a tiny Qur’an from sub-Sahara Africa. Paper, a Chinese invention, was used for fans but also changed the world of book production forever, and I loved how the essay ends with a copy the famous Book of Navigation by Piri Reis. This 17th century map ties the entire book together: expansion and imperialism, travel and exploration, techniques and trade, forms and ideas permeate the history of Asia and the Islamic world in a continuous perpetuum mobile.

This may be a small book with its 64 pages, but it covers so much ground. The map on pages 8 and 9 allows you to take in the scale of the geographical region presented in the book. The many photographs are beautiful and a joy to see. And what these photos and essays leave you with is a new understanding of looking at historic objects: as material output of cultures continuously on the move. That is of course not a groundbreaking new insight itself, but the way this book has made it its central theme results in a presentation of the collection highlighting its cultural and historic interrelatedness, instead of segmenting it according to contemporary countries and their respective histories. I’m looking forward to the future publications in this series!

Across Asia and the Islamic World. Edited by Adriana Proser, 2023.

Full colour, 64 pages, in English. Published by GILES in association with The Walters Art Museum, Baltimore

The book was received as review copy from the publisher.

More book recommendations on personal adornment and archaeology…? Click here to see my other picks for you!

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. She considers jewellery heritage and a historic source. She has authored several books on jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, and on archaeological jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the Society of Jewellery Historians, the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden and the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center, among many others. She curates exhibitions and teaches online courses on jewellery from North Africa & Southwest Asia.