Costumes of Saudi Arabia

Costumes of Saudi Arabia

dress collection

Traditional Costumes of Saudi Arabia

Finally, a book about traditional dress in Saudi Arabia! The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is a relatively closed world. Its rich heritage in dress and adornment is not all that well known outside the region. The Mansoojat Foundation has assembled a large collection of traditional dress over the years, which is now published in the colourful volume Traditional Costumes of Saudi Arabia.

The book is based on the collection itself. Although it clearly states in the introduction that the book is not meant as an exhaustive and complete discussion of traditional dress in Saudi Arabia, it certainly is not limited but offers a very wide introduction into various tribes and regions. It does not contain a contemporary map though, so you’ll have to look elsewhere to find where the tribes and cities mentioned are located. The book also does not contain references or a bibliography. That having been said: there is much to see in this book!

The book is a cooperation of 9 authors and 3 editors, so as to make sure each region or tribe is discussed by a specialist best versed in that area. This results in a recognizable style for each author: some chapters are longer and more detailed than others, but each of the chapters provides background information on the tribe or region presented. And each chapter is such a visual feast: the dress items in the collection are shown from several angles and not limited to a front view, which I find very informative. Even more informative are the sections where the order in which items of clothing are put on, are illustrated. This provides the reader with a detailed understanding of how the various elements function, such as the six elements that form the headdress of women of the Bani Sa’ad tribe. I enjoyed the line drawings and diagrams of costume schemes, as these greatly add to understanding complex items of dress.

All of the chapters are lavishly illustrated, not just with the costumes in the collection but also with landscape photographs, views of architecture, scenes of daily life and historical photographs. As there is no page without a photograph, this full colour book is as much an introduction into Saudi Arabia itself as in its costumes. A valuable glossary in the back explains clothing terms and names as well as fabrics and decoration techniques. Where possible, the accompanying jewellery has been included as well. This is also most informative: for example, the well-known rings with granulation and coral or glass beads, as they are also worn in Yemen and Ethiopia, are shown as part of the headdress of a woman of the Yam tribe: a great illustration of how closely connected dress and jewellery are! The names of jewellery items themselves are only presented in very few instances, but seeing them worn provides them with much needed context.

Traditional Costumes of Saudi Arabia is the only one of its kind in its coverage, illustrations and background information that is readily and widely available: you will want to add this to your bookshelf! A beautiful publication that introduces the colourful world of dress in Saudi Arabia: the preface expresses the hope that this book will form an important introduction to the costumes and heritage of Saudi Arabia, and I’d say that that has definitely succeeded.

Traditional Costumes of Saudi Arabia. The Mansoojat Foundation Collection. Edited by Lamya F. Algharib, Hamida Alireza and Richard Wilding. ACC Art Books, 2021. 320 pages, full colour. In English

Available with the Mansoojat Foundation, the publisher, and online stores such as Amazon.

The book was purchased through bol.com.

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Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. She considers jewellery heritage and a historic source. She has authored several books on jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, and on archaeological jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the Society of Jewellery Historians, the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden and the Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center, among many others. She curates exhibitions and teaches online courses on jewellery from North Africa & Southwest Asia.

Tatreez and Tea

Tatreez and Tea

Tatreez and Tea

Embroidery as storytelling in the Palestinian diaspora
embroidery as storytelling

Tatreez and Tea

Updated Jan 20, 2024

When I was little, my mother and grandmother attempted to teach me cross-stitch embroidery. I remember very well the endless counting and recounting of the pattern, the frustration when I had miscounted and need to undo most of my stitches due to a mistake in the beginning, the art of using as little thread as possible (so no easy long-hauls at the back of the cloth…) and my happiness at the final result. It has been ages since I last picked up needle and thread, but I came across a wonderful book that really makes me want to start again!

Tatreez: more than just handicraft

The art of Palestinian cross-stitch embroidery is called tatreez, and it is infinitely more than just handicraft. Tatreez is both storytelling and affirming identity. Because it always has been a form of storytelling for hundreds of years, embroidery is the ultimate medium to keep telling and sharing the history of a people and of a nation.

In her book Tatreez and Tea, author Wafa Ghnaim combines all of these aspects in a very personal way.

Embroidery as teaching

Embroidered dresses document history, tradition and a way of life. By teaching her daughter to embroider, a mother would also transfer all of her knowledge to the next generation.

This could be practical knowledge, like how to deal with scorpions and snakes. The Snakes design holds no fewer than 5 lessons to be learned, and the Scorpions design teaches the same aspects that I learned during archaeological fieldwork in Egypt.

By means of nature, other concepts such as love and faith are illustrated as well. Ways of life are for example communicated through a beautiful design called Wheat Harvest, reflecting the importance of wheat, bread and hospitality.

Embroidery as historical record

This book however is far more than just an illustration of embroidery. Mixed in with every description of a pattern or a dress is the authors’ own family history. This makes this book all the more personal to read and places dress and adornment squarely where it belongs, at the heart of a people and a nation.

Embroidery is not just decorative or an art on the sidelines of life: embroidering keeps Palestinian culture alive and communicates its longterm and recent history. From the Cleopatra design to the Intifada and Missile designs, embroidery serves to affirm identity.

Tatreez and Tea: a must-read

I thoroughly recommend this book for anyone who would like to learn more about tatreez, its place in the Palestinian diaspora and the agency of dress and adornment. With over 400 pages, dozens of design patterns, terminology and techniques, tea, coffee and quince preserve recipes and personal history over several generations, this is a cultural treasure trove.

Update: Wafa Ghnaim’s second book THOBNA. Reclaiming Palestinian dresses in the diaspora is a powerful study of resistance embroidery that you will not want to miss.

Tatreez and Tea. Embroidery and Storytelling in the Palestinian Diaspora. By Wafa Ghaim. 428 pages.

Read more about the book, classes, lectures etc on the website of Tatreez and Tea.

Follow Wafa on Instagram for updates and embroidery!

I purchased the book directly from Wafa.

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The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.