Exploring the Traditional Jewellery House at al-Shindagha Museum

Exploring the Traditional Jewellery House at al-Shindagha Museum

Museum review

Exploring the Traditional Jewellery House at al-Shindagha Museum

Published November 20, 2025

Introduction to the Traditional Jewellery House

Al-Shindagha Museum in Dubai is a cultural village unlike any other, with 22 beautifully curated houses nestled along the historic Dubai Creek. I introduced the museum itself in this blog – in this post, I take you inside one of its most engaging exhibitions: the Traditional Jewellery House. This house is part of the museum’s wider effort to document life, trade and culture in the Emirates, through material objects and immersive storytelling.

While I’ll dive deeper into the history and meanings of Emirati jewellery in a separate post, this visit is all about how jewellery is presented within the museum experience – and what that tells us about culture, memory and community.

Adornment in Emirati culture: jewellery for men and women

This exhibit starts by challenging a long-standing stereotype: that jewellery is the domain of women only. Side by side, a woman’s belt (hiqb) and a men’s ornate dagger (khanjar) and belt illustrate this similarity. I liked that the museum challenges the notion that adornment is only for women from the start.

The gold belt is a personal piece, a present from a proud father to a daughter on her day of graduation from high school – a wonderful first glimpse into the many meanings of jewellery.

Pearls, craftmanship and trade

The next room is dedicated to pearls, trade, jewellery craftmanship and global trade routes that brought precious materials to the Gulf. It beautifully contextualizes the maker-side of jewellery, which is as much a part of jewellery’s history as the wearing-side of it.

Then, a wall-sized map points out where the main materials to make jewellery with, came from, illustrating the interconnectivity of cultures. You know I love distribution maps, so this room was a highlight!

Iconic Emirati designs still worn today

The next museum room displays six iconic jewellery pieces, each paired with a postage stamp dedicated to traditional UAE jewellery in 2006. These pieces are all modern creations as they are still available in the Gold Souk today.

As a side note: I could not help but notice that with the murtasha necklace, the long dangling pendants were accidentally mounted with their reverse side facing forward – the dangles consist of graceful 8-shaped links, of which the centre part is decorated with a tiny gold flower. This creates an opulent view, but in the modern piece on display, the links are facing forward and the decoration would rest against the chest.

The room is an introduction into jewellery, and the text panel announces that there is much more and varied jewellery to be seen in the museum. So, onwards we go!

Cultural influences on Emirati jewellery styles

The next room introduces silver jewellery from Oman and explains how this was traded into the UAE, until it was replaced by gold halfway through the 20th century. This historical link between Oman and the UAE is essential to understand the developing styles of Emirati jewellery. That goes for the cultural influences from Iran and India, too, and this is acknowledged in the previous room, with the iconic pieces, as well. The museum has done a commendable job in taking the time and creating the space to address this connection.

It is too often I see jewellery presented as if its people lived in isolation, as if jewellery suddenly appeared out of nowhere in the form it has today, and as if today’s borders miraculously shape the past. That oversimplifying does not do justice to either the jewellery, or the place that past cultures had as hubs of exchange and trade.

The al-Shindagha Museum takes care to point the underlying dynamic of trade and exchange behind jewellery, and I think that is one of the most valuable lessons to learn about jewellery.

Bridal jewellery in Emirati weddings: customs and reality

From there, the storyline takes us to bridal jewellery: a woman would receive the most important part of her personal jewellery on the day of her wedding. Here, too, the exhibition explains the differences between cultural expectations and everyday reality: not everyone could afford the splendid gold jewellery required, but a bride had to wear it. So, a system of loaning jewellery developed, a practice continuing until this day.

Wearing the tassah: experiencing Emirati bridal adornment

In this room, visitor may try on a replica of traditional bridal attire, the headdress known as tassah. I found that an incredibly valuable experience: not only because the jewellery is spectacular, but also because it is meant to be worn and move in sync with its wearer. In placing the ornament on my head, I got a feeling for how it affects posture as well as a sense of beauty and grace – an experience I would never have had by just looking at a piece.

A glimpse into 1920s Emirati jewellery: a family collection

Through a room with more jewellery styles and ring types, we arrive at the final exhibition room: a full set of jewellery from the 1920s, on loan from a family. I could have spent hours here, pouring over the delicate details of head adornment, necklaces, bracelets, rings, toe rings…

The Traditional Jewellery House: reflecting on the cultural significance of Emirati jewellery

The final room offers quiet reflection: you sit alone before a large murtasha necklace, enclosed by gentle latticework. It’s a beautifully designed space that invites contemplation on the emotional and cultural depth of Emirati jewellery traditions.

The House of Traditional Jewellery in al-Shinadagha Museum offers a beautiful introduction into traditional Emirati jewellery. Through actual pieces, immersive experiences, video fragments and stunning photographs, you get a vivid sense of the history and meaning of jewellery in Emirati culture.

The only thing that left me wondering is regional diversity in jewellery styles within the Emirates: this is abundantly shown for dress in the House of Beauty and Adornment, but notably absent here. I’m not sure if this means that such diversity did not exist, or that we witness here the ‘canonisation’ of jewellery styles, if you will: the slow formation of an accepted and solidified repertoire of jewellery.

And, if you’ll indulge me for a final wish… after having seen this stunning pavilion, all I wanted was to make my way to the gift shop to learn more about traditional jewellery – but there was nothing available on this topic. I really hope that in the future, the al-Shindagha Museum will offer catalogues of their collection: that would make an already perfect visit unforgettable.


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The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

This blog is free: if you’d like to support independent, self-funded research, please consider enrolling in a course or a jewellery talk, or donate here directly.

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Al Shindagha Museum Dubai: introduction

Al Shindagha Museum Dubai: introduction

A guide to Emirati culture & heritage

Al-Shindagha Museum, Dubai

Published November 19, 2025

What is al-Shindagha Museum? An introduction to Dubai’s heritage district

Situated on the shores of Dubai Creek is al-Shindagha Museum, a vast complex that is both historical village and museum. The al-Shindagha neighbourhood reflects what old Dubai looked like before the building boom of skyscrapers. In this article, I’ll introduce the museum itself to you: its layout, themes and what to expect. In related articles, listed at the end of this post, I will zoom in on the adornment shown in al-Shindagha museum, because that just does not fit in one article!

How the museum is laid out: houses, themes and visitor flow

Rather than one large building, the al-Shindagha museum comprises some 80 heritage houses that have been repurposed as exhibition pavilions. Now just to be clear: none of this is old or original. Every single house you see has been either rebuilt, or heavily restored.

The ‘before and after’-photos in the pavilions on Dubai’s history show the amount of work that has gone into recreating this past world: they show dilapidated buildings on one side, and the restored versions you walk among today on the other. I always love these ‘makeover’ photos – not only because they show the care and attention that have gone into these buildings, but also because it’s important to be aware that this is, to a certain extent, a created world.

The museum experience itself is like walking through a small historic village: of the 80 houses, 22 open into a themed exhibition that invites you to pause and reflect.

The decision to present each topic in a house of its own makes for a very manageable museum visit. None of the museum is too large or overwhelming, and yet you are offered a wealth of information.

It’s like walking around a blog series, if you will – strolling around a historical neighbourhood, while sampling a range of topics. You choose your own itinerary, and enjoy the topics you’d like to learn more about. That strolling through the village also has another benefit: it’s never too crowded, and should a pavilion be receiving a group just as you arrive, you can just go and visit another one, and circle back later.

It took me two visits of 4 hours each – but then again, I really wanted to see everything at leisure.

What you’ll see in the main pavilions

Each pavilion offers a doorway into the museum’s wide‑ranging narrative. For example:

  • The Dubai Creek: Birth of a City pavilion tells how trade, pearling and settlement along the creek laid the foundation for modern Dubai.
  • The Life on Land series of houses explores the desert, mountains and coastal environments and how Emiratis adapted to them.
  • The Culture of the Sea pavilion dives into the maritime heritage of the emirate, including pearl‑diving and dhow‑building.

In each house, you’ll wander through its rooms following a well laid-out route. This takes you from an introduction to the subject at hand to its history, and very often also its application in today’s world. For example, in the Poetry House you will not just learn about historic and Bedouin poetry, but also how eloquency is still valued today.

This breadth of subject matter is part of what makes the al-Shindagha museum so fascinating: it offers broad cultural and historical framework. It’s also why I will continue this blog post with a series zooming in on the adornment pavilions, because these were so informative that fitting them in here wouldn’t do them justice.

Activities and workshops in al-Shindagha museum

Besides the museum houses, there is also a lot going on in al-Shindagha museum. Many houses offer explanations by a cultural guide: a knowledgeable person explaining more about the topic shown and answering any questions you might have. They can stay with you throughout your visit through the house, or just give you an introduction at the start: I loved how they were super friendly, welcoming and flexible in their approach.

Depending on availability, several houses offer workshops: I received henna on my hand in the People and Faith House, while the cultural guide explained more about its significance and history. A beautiful way to make your visit last after you have left the museum!

Throughout the year, there are many activities celebrating Emirati traditions: check the website of the museum (at the end of this article) to see which workshops, talks and activities are planned. I really like this way of bringing a museum to life and allowing visitors to experience different aspects of culture and history – if I lived in Dubai, I’d probably be visiting often to attend talks or, who knows, to give them myself. It’s a beautiful, lively podium for cultural history.

Practical tips before visiting al-Shindagha Museum

Here are a few pointers I thought you might want to know before visiting the museum.

The museum buildings themselves have pleasant air conditioning, but apart from the visitor centre area there are no shaded places to sit and very few trees outside. The many benches on the promenade along the creek are in the sun. Some of the alleyways are covered with cloth, as it would have been in the past, which provide shade – but in general, the wanderings through the museum alleys can be quite hot. Stay hydrated!

As with everything in the U.A.E.: dress respectfully. You can’t waltz in in shorts, beachwear or flipflops. Added benefit: dressing modestly also helps protect your skin from the sun. Just for inspiration, see the above photo of me in the house of People & Faith: a sleeveless dress paired with a blouse goes a long way.

Wear shoes you are comfortable walking in: it literally is a village, and you will be wandering from house to house. There is a buggy service that takes you along the creek, back to the visitor centre.

Make sure your phone is charged: not only because you will want to take a gazillion photos, but also because no paper tickets are issued. You will be asked to photograph a QR-code, which will them be scanned at the entrance of every building (pro-tip: save this photo in your Favourites-folder so you can easily find it again). A great way to save on paper waste!

Facilities: almost every pavilion has toilets, something I really appreciated (if anyone from a museum reads this: we ladies really need our bathroom breaks, and only too often we end up waiting in endless lines – not here!). There are a visitor centre, a hotel, a gift shop and a few restaurants on site, all located near each other on one end of the village. Some of the exhibition houses have their own gift-shop built in, but none of these were operational during my visit in November 2025 – should that change, I’ll add that here.

A note on sensory experiences during your visit

The museum visit is immersive — most houses include some form of sensory stimulant, such as gentle music, scent diffusers, atmospheric lighting or film projection.

None of this is too loud or too glaring – in fact, I’d say it beautifully enhanced my visit. But I also found that after several houses (in my case meaning after several hours), the cumulative effect began to take its toll on my concentration and absorption of information.

Finding a quiet, shaded spot to decompress proved a bit of a challenge: although the area itself is peaceful, most of the benches are located in full sun, as I mentioned above.

If you’re sensitive to sensory input, take your time to visit and see if you can insert a break every now and then – maybe have a drink at the visitor’s centre or at one of the restaurants.

Why al-Shindagha Museum is worth visiting

In the hyper-modern, fast city of Dubai, this museum offers a grounded and thoughtfully curated link to the emirate’s deeper roots. After visiting, you’re bound to notice architectural, craft and cultural references around the city with a clearer eye.

For anyone interested in material culture — whether jewellery, dress, traditional craft, maritime trade or desert life — the museum is a strong starting point. It frames those varied topics within the context of Dubai’s transformation. You’ll see Dubai with different eyes after your visit.

So, if you find yourself in Dubai and want a meaningful introduction to the heritage side of the city, I would highly recommend a visit to the al Shindagha Museum!

See more about the museum here.

Related posts on the al-Shindagha Museum collections

Traditional Jewellery House: more on traditional Emirati jewellery


Find out more about the history of jewellery in the e-courses!

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The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

This blog is free: if you’d like to support independent research, please consider enrolling in a course or a jewellery talk. The proceeds directly fund my research work: thank you so much for your support!

Bodemjuweeltjes/Gems Unearthed

Bodemjuweeltjes/Gems Unearthed

Archaeological jewellery

Bodemjuweeltjes/Gems Unearthed

Published July 4, 2025

Humans have been making and wearing jewellery for thousands of years. In fact, the first non-utilitarian objects ever created by humans were items of personal adornment. When you have been following this blog, you know jewellery is more than decoration—it’s a genuine historical source. Each excavated piece gives us a new perspective on our past and ourselves. It reveals trade routes, cultural connections, social hierarchy, and spiritual beliefs. Bodemjuweeltjes/Gems Unearthed is an exhibition in the Zeeuws Museum, The Netherlands, that discusses precisely these themes – so I had to go and see!

Gems Unearthed: the theme of the exhibition

Gems Unearthed invites visitors to think about these meanings while appreciating the objects themselves—pendants, chains, rings, bracelets, brooches, buckles, and hairpins, some several thousand years old. I appreicated that the introduction included an explanation of what we miss: only what has survived is on display. Metals like bronze and gold, glass, and gemstones have endured, while organic materials such as textiles and plant fibres have largely decayed.

The exhibition also features a strong selection of pieces from the early Middle Ages (my favourite!), a time when it was common to bury people in their finest clothes and jewellery. The exhibition fills three rooms in the museum – so let me walk you through!

Gems Unearthed: archeological jewellery

The first room focuses on archaeological jewellery. One thing I appreciated was the way the pieces were displayed at different levels, corresponding to their age: older items at the bottom, newer ones higher up – just like archaeological layers. You can see what I mean in the photos above: click to enlarge them to take in the details. It’s a great way to show development over time, and I thought it was well designed. The display levels even use different earthy tones to enhance the layered effect.

However, I’m not sure all visitors will pick up on this… because the room is very dark. Like, well and truly dark. While the jewellery itself is well lit and stands out, the overall lighting (or should I say lack of it) makes it hard to read the explanatory texts on the brochure that visitors receive. The texts on the sides of the showcases, indicating which level corresponds to which time period, are also hard to read.

This room opens with one of the oldest known pieces from the Netherlands: a boar’s tooth pendant dating from around 9000–4000 BCE. The showcases are organised by jewellery type, so you’ll find showcases dedicated to pendants, rings, necklaces, bracelets…I like how the chronological layout helps place them in context, so even when you’re just admiring the pieces, you’ll get a sense of their relative age and development.

Gems Unearthed: production and craftmanship

The next room is dedicated to jewellery production, and it’s much brighter. I found this section especially interesting because it explains how these items were made, showing techniques and tools that help you understand the craftsmanship involved. It shows moulds and half products, and touches on recycling: this happened quite often in the past. Just one example is a fibula (a clothing pin) made with an Arab coin which was found in the province of Friesland.

There is a selection of stones and gems, including a practice stone for intaglio cutting – every craft needs practising, and this is a piece I love! A beautiful set of chunky amber beads, along with garnets, Meerschaum, jet and more illustrates the range of materials used.

A separate showcase deals with the production of beads: Roman mosaic glass inlays, recycled for their glass in the early Middle Ages, 17th century glass beads known as chevron beads, consisting of multiple layers of glass (and a few misfits), a piece of bone used to cut out small beads in a monastery…while small, this room manages to pack in quite a few techniques and materials!

Gems Unearthed: traditional Zeeland jewellery

The third and final room is even brighter and focuses on traditional jewellery from the museum’s own region. I really enjoyed this part! It features a careful selection of local gold and silver jewellery, jewellers’ drawings, and images of people wearing these pieces. There’s also a section on filigree, which played an important role in local traditions. In this way, the last room ties together what you’ve seen earlier: design patterns that go back centuries and a continuing story of skilled production.

Gems Unearthed: an overview of archaeological and traditional jewellery

This is a lovely exhibition: small, but with a lot of beautiful items presented in a coherent manner! The publication accompanying the exhibition is also a delight: a magazine-style publication, offering more insights on some of the pieces shown as well as personal insights by collectors and curators alike on a really wide variety of jewellery-related topics.

The exhibition texts are available in both Dutch and English, so you’ll be able to enjoy the full range of information.

All in all, should you find yourself in The Netherlands, this exhibition is definitely worth a trip to Zeeland!

More on the exhibition is on the website of the Zeeuws Museum.


Find out more about the history of jewellery in the e-course!

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The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

The Fascination of Jewellery

The Fascination of Jewellery

7,000 years of jewellery art

The Fascination of Jewellery

Published January 1, 2025

An exhibition of 7,000 years of jewellery: of course, I had to go and see that! The Cologne Museum of Applied Arts (MAKK) devoted an exhibition based on its own formidable collection of jewellery. It turned out to be a beautiful, albeit very classic, jewellery exhibition.

The MAKK jewellery collection

The MAKK holds around 1,700 pieces of jewellery in its collection. As this is a design museum (and so not specifically a jewellery or historic museum), and the collection has been built by both acquisition and generous gifts, the collection reflects a traditional European viewpoint of jewellery: Antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the 19th century form its focal points. [1]

The geographical focus of all this is profoundly European [2]: among the antiquities, there are of course pieces from the ancient civilizations in North Africa and Southwest Asia – these were avidly collected in Europe.

The ‘cross-cultural content’ of the exhibition, as mentioned on the exhibition website, therefore is to be seen as more cross-cultural within Europe, rather than cross-cultural as in: including non-Western cultures.

7,000 years of jewellery art in the MAKK

The exhibition itself is organised thematically as well as chronologically. This works very well: each showcase is devoted to a theme, which itself is then built up chronologically. The texts with each theme are very accessible and enlighting.

I loved that the exhibition started out with amulets as one of the first themes – one of my favourite capacities of jewellery! See a few of these in the gallery above: click to enlarge the images. Other themes include rings, mourning jewellery, inspiration from flora and fauna, as well as more stylistic developments such as the emergence of archaeologically inspired jewellery, Art Nouveau and mass-produced jewellery. A series of modern designs finally showcases contemporary takes on themes such as identity, the relation to the human body and intricate constructions.

The Fascination of Jewellery: the dreamed potential

I very much enjoyed seeing all of these stunning jewellery items and wandering through themes and time-periods. What I missed however, was an opportunity to highlight the meaning of jewellery beyond the art-historian.

For the Middle Ages for example, the art of enamelling in southern Europe and North Africa forms a technical connection between worlds that could have enhanced the exhibition, and the stylistic impact of the steppe peoples from Central Asia on early medieval jewellery is a beautiful illustration of how worlds are connected rather than separated.

And if ever there was a category of jewellery that underscores identity, it would be regional dress and adornment. The regional jewellery of the German-speaking world alone is so rich and varied, that attention to this jewellery, of more common people, could have added another layer of significance to the exhibition.

Of course, I understand that the collection of the MAKK formed the backbone of this exhibition, and also that this is one of the most respected collections of European jewellery – the jewellery shown in the exhibition is stunning and a privilege to study, no argument there. But with even a few loans from other collections, I think this particular exhibition could have transcended to an even more meaningful goal: building bridges in an increasingly fragmenting society – through jewellery. Illustrating how techniques, forms and designs form part of a shared cultural background of 7,000 years is, or could have been, an incredibly powerful message.

The Fascination of Jewellery: the catalogue

Despite my personal daydream of what a jewellery exhibition could offer, the objects on display are absolutely fabulous. Every single piece of jewellery is breathtaking!And so, I always hope for a catalogue with a jewellery exhibition.

Now one of the great things about exhibitions in German museums happens to be the catalogues, and the book that comes with this exhibition is no exception. It’s a huge, beautiful volume of more than 350 pages, entirely bilingual in German and English, and presents beautiful, crisp photos of the exhibited jewellery along with well-researched and insightful texts. It offers background on the collection strategy, has an introductory chapter on the collection itself by none other than Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, and gives ample explanations with every piece of jewellery featured.

The Fascination of Jewellery: 7,000 years of jewellery art

You will love this exhibition for the quality of its jewellery, offered to a wide public through easily digestible texts and themes. Wandering across the beautifully lit and designed showcases, you will get a great introduction into European jewellery throughout the ages. The catalogue that goes with the exhibition is a must if you work with European jewellery in any capacity! And even though I would have let this spectacular jewellery collection be the inspiration for a different type of exhibition myself, I had a great time – and I’m convinced you will, too.

The Fascination of Jewellery. 7,000 years of jewellery at the MAKK.

I visited the exhibition on my own initiative on Dec 28th, 2024, and purchased the catalogue myself.


Find out more about the history of jewellery in the e-course!

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The Fascination of Jewellery: references

[1] Focal points as mentioned on the website of the museum, accessed January 1st, 2025.

[2] As explained in the catalogue, p. 14/15.

The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

MODA Moroccan Fashion Statements

MODA Moroccan Fashion Statements

Fashion and design from morocco

MODA: Moroccan Fashion Statements

Published October 10, 2024

Every now and then I come across an exhibition that really leaves me inspired, so imagine my joy when I visited the huge exhibition on Moroccan fashion in Utrecht: MODA – Moroccan fashion statements. Not just because I may have thought ‘I would totally love to wear this’ a little too often, but because this was just immersed with meaning expressed in material form. As usual, click on any of the images below to enlarge them!

MODA: not just any fashion exhibition

Before I take you through a few of my personal highlights, a few general observations. This is an incredibly varied exhibition, in which you will find high couture and street art, luxurious materials and stray finds, innovative and familiar shapes. As the curatorial team (Ninke Bloemberg, curator and iniator of this exhibition, and Zineb Seghrouchni of DAR Cultural Agency) pointed out, this exhibition is not based on books or other forms of debate on what fashion is.

This selection is rooted in people, in everyday life, in today’s culture. It does not aim to be an overview of everything Morocco has to offer in terms of fashion (because you’d need a venue even larger than this), but a celebration of today’s up-and-coming designers alongside fashion icons. It’s like a snapshot of what inspires Moroccan designers today, and a glimpse into the history of fashion. It also illustrates how there is no such thing as monolithic ‘Moroccan’ fashion – the diversity of styles and influences is wide.

Moroccan fashion: today’s world

The first creation I saw, serves as a perfect example. Two designs by Maison Sara Chraïbi: one a wide cloak, the other a flapper-style dress, both from her 2024 Spring-Summer collection. Both carry an image of view into a mosque, whose arches beautifully blend with the lines of the design.

It is not any mosque, however: this is the 12th century Tinmal Mosque, in the High Atlas mountain range. During the devastating earthquake of 2023, it was substantially damaged. Here, its arches are embellished with sparkling gold beads. I imagined how sewing these on, one by one, is almost an act of restoring and protecting, and how wearing it fuses a person and their heritage together. It both brings inner life to the architecture, and embodies a promise to the future.

There is such strength and resilience, but also hope and joy in these first two pieces, that I totally get why these are the show-starters.

Contemporary issues, vintage to ancient design

The design immediately next to it caught my eye, too: a hooded cloak, called silham, covered in embroidered eyes, by Maison ARTC. The cloak itself is vintage, the embroidery has been added. The poem that goes with it, speaks volumes:

I see the change,
The love,
The anger,
The culture,
The hope,
The lack of justice,
The art,
The pain,
The people,
The community,
The world,
Myself,
Don’t forget to witness.

I found the use of eyes in this context extremely powerful: not only do they represent seeing and witnessing, but they also shield the wearer – the power of the eye in deflecting evil is ancient, and the use of sparkling sequins adds to that averting evil. The colour of this cloak, that of henna, adds to that protective and blessing capacity. Seeing and shielding in one garment: it’s this layered meaning that I found to be present throughout the exhibition.

MODA: artists, artisans and everyday life

The exhibition breathes cultural roots and almost effortlessly connects these with new designs and forms. Like the opera cloak of Dior’s 2020 Cruise Collection. Made of wool, dyed with henna, it clearly echoed the traditional henna cloth of southern Morocco. That relation between artists and artisans is also explored in the exhibition. There is a stunning dress where the loom is part of its design by Said Mahrouf, and the same exhibition room shows videos of artisans at work. Here, you’ll also find a wonderful selection of antique Moroccan jewellery on loan from the National Jewellery Museum in Rabat.

What absolutely made my head spin was the attention to hairstyles. Ilham Mestour, a celebrated hairstylist, created several hair designs based on the traditional hairdos of Amazigh women. One of them looked like it was created with actual scented paste, so I asked Zineb Seghrouchni of DAR Cultural Agency, one of the curators, about this piece in particular.

She told me that this was made with ghasoul, and that it smelled wonderful when they took it out of its container to install in the room – I can imagine! Including hair in an exhibition on fashion makes total sense: it is through hairstyles that tribal identities are expressed, but also how a form of private space and time is created. Creating these elaborate hairstyles is much more than just a form of outward appearance: you could say it is the end result of valuable time spent together, stories shared and knowledge transmitted. And that very much belongs in an exhibition on fashion.

MODA: an multi-faceted, rich exhibition

There is much more in this exhibition: from family photos to playful designs, from personal inspiration to global shows. And while I focus, due to the nature of my work I guess, on the more traditional elements that informed the designs, either implicitly or explicitly, that only is just one element of the creations on show. You will see opinions on how we treat our planet, mass-production and pollution, fast consumerism and prejudice.

There is also continuous attention for fashion in art, from street photography to photos enhanced with embroidery (which reminded me a lot of the Imaginarium-project in its treatment of printed matter), video art, a contemplative space to immerse oneself in publications and to meet with other visitors, and a myriad of details that require more than 1 visit – at least, for me!

It is the first time that such a large exhibition on Moroccan fashion has been organised in The Netherlands, and I hope this will be the start of many more: I highly recommend to visit if you have the chance!

MODA. Moroccan Fashion Statements in Centraal Museum Utrecht, Oct 3rd 2024 – March 2, 2025.

Co-curated by Ninke Bloemberg of Centraal Museum and Zineb Seghrouchni of DAR Cultural Agency

I was invited to the press preview and received a copy of the catalogue as a PR-invite.


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The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Etienne Dinet: Algerian passions

Etienne Dinet: Algerian passions

Institut du Monde Arabe

Etienne Dinet: Algerian passions

Published March 13, 2024

You are probably familiar with the most famous painting by Etienne Dinet: a couple standing under a starry sky, a bush in full bloom behind them, the woman wearing loads of jewellery. It is also the lead image of the exhibition in the Institut du Monde Arabe. Etienne Dinet, Passions Algériennes, shows an overview of the work of this Orientalist painter.

Etienne Dinet: the ‘ethnologist painter’

Hajj Nasredinne Dinet was born as Etienne Dinet in Paris, in 1861. He studied art, and visited Algeria for the first time in 1884. That was in Bou Saada, where he would eventually end up living. After converting to Islam in 1913, he took on the name Nasreddine, and completed the hajj in 1929. From his conversion onwards, the paintings include more religiously themed scenes such as prayer and mosques.

He spoke and read Arabic, and called himself an ‘ethnologist painter’ – his goal was to paint life as he lived it every day, before it would disappear as a result of a changing environment. [1] The realism in the details is indeed fantastic. I enjoyed going over each and every painting on display to see its rendering of bracelets, earrings, anklets, facial tattoos and more.

Jewellery in Dinet’s paintings

Dinet painted in the region of Bou Saada, Biskra, Laghouat and further south in the M’zab. The jewellery of this vast region is easily recognizable on the paintings. We see the characteristic round fibula closing the head veil on the chest, larger and smaller bracelets, and the elaborate headdresses.

Apart from the abundant silver, the painter also included the less precious materials such as cowrie shells, glass beads, and leather bands.

An example is the painting with children shown above (click to enlarge it): apart from the earrings, there is a single cowrie shell plaited into the hair of the child sitting with its back to the viewer, and another cowrie with a blue bead with the child opposite.

Etienne Dinet – Passions Algeriennes: a beautiful exhibition addressing Orientalism, too

Ethnographically correct though these paintings may be, it is hardly surprising they are very much Orientalist. The Algeria depicted is sugar coated, bathing in sunshine and surrounded by blooming flowers. The women are in some cases painted as mysterious, like the dancer under the night sky, or even naked. And like many photographers of the time, Dinet also painted in his studio: a photograph of the painter at work (in the gallery above, click to enlarge it) shows his models posing.

I could not help but think of the photographs by Marc Garanger, taken between 1960 and 1962. These are so close in time: the children painted around 1900 – 1920 could be the older women in these, which show the much grittier reality of colonialism.

The composition, light and colours of the paintings also reminded me of the work by Lawrence Alma Tadema, who painted equally dreamy paintings of another imagined reality: the past. Here, too, the level of detail and accuracy is astounding, while the scenes themselves depict the world as it could have been – not as it actually was.

The exhibition and its accompanying magazine illustrate this variety of perspectives: it addresses both the exoticizing and the accuracy, the clear and abundant love for Algeria and the position of the colonizer, the combination of faith and religion with art. I enjoyed seeing many beautiful paintings in private collections and museums brought together, and learning more about both the painter and his world.

 

Etienne Dinet, Passions Algériennes: Jan 30, 2024 – June 9, 2024.

Institut du Monde Arabe, Paris. See more info on their website here.

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References

[1] Bentchikou, G. & N. Guillout, Un peintre ethnologue, in: Etienne Dinet, Passions Algériennes, Editions Beaux Arts.

[2] See this article on these photographs for example

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.