Silk Roads

Silk Roads

Silk Roads

Peoples, Cultures, Landscapes
cultural connections

Silk Roads

The Silk Roads…one of my favourite topics. The importance of Central Asia as a corridor for languages, inventions, sciences, and religions has been fundamental for the world we know today. As I traveled more and more through Central Asia, I gradually learned that for several centuries, this was the centre of the universe. I visited abandoned universities of the Middle Ages, marveled at astrolabia in museums (still can’t reproduce how they actually work, though) and explored both Greek and Buddhist complexes on the Uzbek-Afghan border on the same day. I followed the Oxus river all the way to its sources in the Tajik Pamir and (after I had recovered from a bout of altitude sickness) wondered how it could be that I still found myself within the reach of a 4th century Roman road map. Here, religions, technologies and people connected. On an unparalleled scale, writings from various cultures were translated into one and the same language, shared and improved upon. It is in this vast region that the foundations for many scientific methods and processes were laid, book printing enabled the spread of literature and scientific works even further, and art styles mingled and fused. In the last decade many excellent studies have appeared into this finely mazed, interconnected system of exchange. In 2019, Thames & Hudson added the heavy volume Silk Roads: Peoples, Cultures, Landscapes, edited by Susan Whitfield. And what a volume it is!

The approach chosen follows the various landscapes over and through which the networks existed. The main framework of the book are the sections Steppe, Mountains and Highlands, Deserts and Oases, Rivers and Plains, and Seas and Skies. I like how the landscape is the binding agent in this book, instead of the ubiquitous chronology. But what I really, really like is the how the editor has unlocked the rich variety in this book by cross-referencing material culture with categories in the table of contents. The material culture is divided over the categories cities/buildings/archaeological sites, ceramics and glass, coins and money, metalware and semi-precious stones, manuscripts, books and other writings, sculptures and paintings, textiles and ‘other’. Each of these is cross-referenced with the categories religion, military, clothing and accoutrement, and science. This allows you to search and find almost anything that meets your fancy, and I feel it perfectly illustrates the interconnectivity of the Silk Roads-system itself.

On to the lay-out: you will want to keep exploring these pages, as there is so much room for illustrations. The entire book is for the most part full-colour and shows sweeping views of the various landscapes, (details of) objects and maps. Every page is another invitation to read and see, to explore and learn.  Especially in this online day and age (because let’s face it, I’m writing this on a website and you’re here reading it) when investing in visuals in a book is not as self-evident as it used to be, this is a very welcome visual feast. I particularly enjoy the maps: I can look at them for hours, tracing how it all fits together. 

And besides photographs, what does this book offer? I would say it creates a larger context for an important part of history and puts individual finds in perspective. Over 75 contributors, each experts in their fields, have provided longer and shorter entries within the landscape framework. Each of the landscape chapters mixes a total of circa 20 angles in longer texts and box texts, in which specific objects or locations are the focus of attention. These are in turn tied in with the larger framework through references to other entries. One example is a well-known helmet found in the southern part of The Netherlands, highlighted in The Steppe and the Roman World. For The Netherlands, it is a unique find, but it is placed here in the larger context of cultural contacts between the Romans and the Sassanians. A Viking tapestry, found in Oseberg, shows a Buddhist ‘endless knot’, indicating contacts with Central Asia. That these existed is illustrated by means of the Samanid coin hoards, from current-day Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, found in Scandinavia as well as a bronze Buddha statuette found in Helgo, Sweden. The book links back and forth internally and externally to finds, ideas, technologies, religions and people connecting through time. What I particularly like is that every single entry ends with a few suggestions for further reading. It has definitely been a major piece of work for the editors to ensure that all of these bits and pieces of information are tied together instead of forming a loose bundle of trivia.  

The only thing that I found interesting but could do without, is the short introduction in the beginning about early photography in Central Asia. As much as I like old photographs and the pioneering days of this once new documentation art, this introduction did not do much for me in the overall view on the Silk Roads network – but it does make for beautiful illustrations.

All in all, this is a book to explore. Due to its encyclopedic approach with a multitude of entries, it will not be a book that you will read in one go from cover to cover. Rather, I found myself cherrypicking topics that I wanted to read about from that wonderfully cross-referenced table of contents, and then wandering from there throughout the book. An Islamic glass dish found in China led me to Buddhist relic keeping, and from Parthian textiles on the steppe I found myself back in Palmyra.  Silk Roads allows you to explore many narratives from many disciplines. For me, this way of weaving topics, places, people and cultures reflects the multi-layered capacity of history: there is not one linear story, not one fixed set of events. A book to treasure on many rainy afternoons!

Silk Roads: Peoples, Cultures, Landscapes. Edited by Susan Whitfield. 480 pages, 450 colour images and 200 b/w images.

See more images and views inside the book on the publishers’ website here.

The book is a gift from one of the contributors to the volume.

Sultani

Sultani

Sultani

Women's Traditional Dress in the UAE
dress history

Sultani

When it comes to placing dress in its cultural context, the two-volume Sultani book is one of those rare publications that encompass it all. This heavy study is the outcome of the PhD-research of its author, Dr. Reem el-Mutwalli, and discusses all aspects of traditional dress in the United Arab Emirates (UAE).

The Sultani volumes are stunningly designed, one of the aspects that makes perusing the books such a pleasure. Dr. el-Mutwalli, a designer herself, has cooperated with artists and designers to illustrate her work. The result is a splendid mix of traditional garments, old photographs, new designs and photographs surrounded by beautiful graphic design and calligraphy. In this respect, the book shows how tradition can be inspiration for new art forms, and in this way stay very much alive. Another advantage is that the book is bilingual: every text, caption and explanatory line is both in Arabic and in English. The texts are broken down in main texts, feature items, captions to photographs and drawings and additional box texts where needed so the reader can wander through the books at leisure.

Volume 1 places dress in its historic and religious context. The influences of past conventions and religious and political issues are discussed in detail and illustrate the many aspects influencing the shape and fabric of dress. Regional influences such as the climate, desert areas, pearl fishing and the many migrations of other cultures into the region all contribute to the way dress evolves and changes. Political changes such as Ottoman, Iranian and Saudi dress codes are highlighted, before discussing one of the most-debated topics in the West: the history and nature of veiling. In this nuanced approach, the Sultani book successfully creates a cultural framework for understanding and appreciating the many functions of dress. The final part of this cultural introduction zooms in on the UAE itself and discusses gender roles in tribal and social hierarchy before and after the oil boom. Throughout the book, this treatment of dress as a living and adapting tradition rather than a static form of adornment continues.

The chapters on dressmaking, textiles and embellishments are a very detailed source of information for everyone interested in regional dress. Again, these chapter do not simply present the topics themselves, but place them in a cultural context. The use of fabric as gifts, tributes or even payments for example serves to understand the importance of fabric in a lager framework and not just as basic material for dressmaking. The extensive terminology given for each type of fabric, stitch, colour and design shows the in-depth knowledge of the author and will be a feast to read for every costume and dress specialist.

Volume two continues this journey with an elaborate presentation of garment types and accessories. Of each garment, its history, meaning and changed appearances are discussed, alongside again an elaborate terminology and detailed images. Face masks, head covers, body covers, dresses, underwear and even footwear are presented and illustrated. I particularly enjoyed the chapter about storage and maintenance of clothes and fabric, as this illustrated the use of incensing clothes before use and after washing.

I wholeheartedly recommend this book as it both details historic dress that is no longer worn, and documents change and adaptations. Dr. Reem el-Mutwalli does not ‘freeze’ dress in a vacuum, but rather focuses on its constant change as a result of a changing world. The beautiful illustrations and large format make both volumes enjoyable for their content as well as for their art, a rare and wonderful combination.

Sultani. Traditions renewed. Changes in Women’s traditional dress in the United Arab Emirates during the reign of Shaykh Zayid bin Sultan Al Nahyan, 1966-2004.

Read more about the book here on the Sultani website.

More on the collection of traditional dress can be found on the website of The Zay Initiative.

The book is a treasured gift from the author.

Tatreez and Tea

Tatreez and Tea

Tatreez and Tea

Embroidery as storytelling in the Palestinian diaspora
embroidery as storytelling

Tatreez and Tea

Updated Jan 20, 2024

When I was little, my mother and grandmother attempted to teach me cross-stitch embroidery. I remember very well the endless counting and recounting of the pattern, the frustration when I had miscounted and need to undo most of my stitches due to a mistake in the beginning, the art of using as little thread as possible (so no easy long-hauls at the back of the cloth…) and my happiness at the final result. It has been ages since I last picked up needle and thread, but I came across a wonderful book that really makes me want to start again!

Tatreez: more than just handicraft

The art of Palestinian cross-stitch embroidery is called tatreez, and it is infinitely more than just handicraft. Tatreez is both storytelling and affirming identity. Because it always has been a form of storytelling for hundreds of years, embroidery is the ultimate medium to keep telling and sharing the history of a people and of a nation.

In her book Tatreez and Tea, author Wafa Ghnaim combines all of these aspects in a very personal way.

Embroidery as teaching

Embroidered dresses document history, tradition and a way of life. By teaching her daughter to embroider, a mother would also transfer all of her knowledge to the next generation.

This could be practical knowledge, like how to deal with scorpions and snakes. The Snakes design holds no fewer than 5 lessons to be learned, and the Scorpions design teaches the same aspects that I learned during archaeological fieldwork in Egypt.

By means of nature, other concepts such as love and faith are illustrated as well. Ways of life are for example communicated through a beautiful design called Wheat Harvest, reflecting the importance of wheat, bread and hospitality.

Embroidery as historical record

This book however is far more than just an illustration of embroidery. Mixed in with every description of a pattern or a dress is the authors’ own family history. This makes this book all the more personal to read and places dress and adornment squarely where it belongs, at the heart of a people and a nation.

Embroidery is not just decorative or an art on the sidelines of life: embroidering keeps Palestinian culture alive and communicates its longterm and recent history. From the Cleopatra design to the Intifada and Missile designs, embroidery serves to affirm identity.

Tatreez and Tea: a must-read

I thoroughly recommend this book for anyone who would like to learn more about tatreez, its place in the Palestinian diaspora and the agency of dress and adornment. With over 400 pages, dozens of design patterns, terminology and techniques, tea, coffee and quince preserve recipes and personal history over several generations, this is a cultural treasure trove.

Update: Wafa Ghnaim’s second book THOBNA. Reclaiming Palestinian dresses in the diaspora is a powerful study of resistance embroidery that you will not want to miss.

Tatreez and Tea. Embroidery and Storytelling in the Palestinian Diaspora. By Wafa Ghaim. 428 pages.

Read more about the book, classes, lectures etc on the website of Tatreez and Tea.

Follow Wafa on Instagram for updates and embroidery!

I purchased the book directly from Wafa.

More book reviews? Browse them all here!

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The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Ancient Egyptian Jewelry

Ancient Egyptian Jewelry

Ancient Egyptian Jewelry

50 masterpieces
ancient masterpieces

Ancient Egyptian Jewelry

A new book on jewellery from ancient Egypt, featuring 50 well-known masterpieces: at first I wondered why I would want to read this, as many of the pieces have been published before. Let me tell you, here and now, that I’m really glad I did! It’s definitely a wonderful addition to my library, and here is why you will love it, too.

What immediately caught my eye and initially persuaded me to buy the book, is the photography. Each jewellery item has been photographed so beautifully that just browsing through the book is such a delight. The photography is crisp, clear, modern and very attractive: it makes you observe the jewellery in another way and it certainly made me gasp at the intricate designs and high level of artistry these ancient jewelers achieved.

Each piece of jewellery is given its own spread (2 pages). One entire page is used for the image, and the other for the accompanying text. What I found very useful is the concise overview of all the details for each piece: materials, dimensions, date, owner, inventory numbers, and if at all known, excavation date and campaign. The main body of the text describes the piece in detail and explains the background and meaning of materials and motifs used. The result is that the book provides, seemingly in passing, an enormous amount of information about religion, economy, trade, history and craftsmanship.

Besides jewellery, the book also presents a few other forms of ornament, like a beautiful mirror, a stunning dagger that once belonged to a princess, and the daggers of Tutankhamun. From the early Dynastic period to the Roman period, the jewellery items in the book illustrate Egypt’s history, show its consistency in certain beliefs and traditions, and its innovative adaptations of new techniques, shapes and forms. All in all, this is a concise yet value-packed, and visually very pleasing book that you can’t go wrong with.

Ancient Egyptian Jewelry. 50 Masterpieces of Art and Design. By Nigel Fletcher-Jones. AUC Press, Cairo. 112 pages, full colour

Read more on the website of AUC Press.

The book was purchased through Amazon.

Photographing Jewelry

Photographing Jewelry

expert tips

Photography of Personal Adornment

Updated Feb 07, 2024

Photographing jewellery can be a challenge. Already as a small finds photographer on our excavation in Egypt I have struggled my fair share of capturing ancient beads (which would be displaced by the slightest breeze), bracelet fragments and other pieces of personal adornment. This book, published in 2014 already, offers lessons learned and tips and tricks from longtime jewellery photographer and editor of Ornament Magazine, Robert K. Liu.

This book offers 16 chapters of jewellery photography. The first three are technical and introduce camera and photography equipment. In this day and age, technology advances faster than a book can be printed. While the types and models of cameras discussed therefore may no longer be available or have been replaced by newer models or even smartphones, these chapters still thoroughly prepare you for what to think of when taking photographs. Backgrounds, lighting options, fixtures such as putty and wire, the use of grids and depth of focus are all introduced and illustrated by means of various examples.

Next is a very important chapter on the point of view or orientation of your photo. Choosing which angle you will use makes all the difference for a good photograph and can really bring a piece to life. Here again, the same jewellery piece is photographed in various angles for your consideration and to see what the effects can be.

Robert includes tips and tricks for laying out your jewellery piece carefully and aesthetically: I must say his description of photography being ‘not a passive activity’ really resonated with me, as you will be bending and flexing yourself endlessly to gain a good shot!

The following 12 chapters all discuss one aspect or another of photographing jewellery. Comparison shots (many of a similar type of object), Imitations (how to photograph different textures), Process (jewellery making), studio work, on models, a separate chapter on beads and beadwork, how to shoot covers and advertisement photographs, and even artist studios, clothing and events such as fairs: there is nothing that this book does not cover. The book ends with a useful glossary of photographic terms.

What I enjoyed most about this book is how it illustrates the points discussed with photographs. In this way, you can observe the differences between photographs and learn from the description that goes with it. There are many, many photographs of not only jewellery, but also helpful pictures of set-ups, fixtures and studios.

The abundance of photographs strangely enough does result in what is (to me) a drawback: the extremely dense lay-out. The pages are literally crammed with text and photography. Each page is split into two columns to accommodate both running text and image captions, and for me the amount of various types of lettering in both upper and lower cast, italic and bold, and different sizes is too much.

Accessing the rich information gathered in this book is made considerably harder by the lay-out, but again, how we perceive a book is very much a matter of personal preference and I’m all too aware of the cost of producing a book that contains as much information as this one.

All in all, studying the many stunning photographs has provided me with food for thought and inspiration on how to handle my own photography. As the author himself rightly puts it: ‘for the cost of a good dinner’ this book will help you on your way in jewellery photography!

Photography of Personal Adornment by Robert K. Liu PhD is available through Ornament Magazine. 160 full-colour pages with 530 (!) photographs

The book was received as emuneration for an article contribution to Ornament Magazine.

Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Paint It, Black

Paint It, Black

Paint it, Black

A biography of kohl containers
eye make-up

Paint it, Black

With a title so rock and roll, a book can only be fabulous, and is certainly what Paint it, Black by Jolanda Bos is. In this study, she zooms in on one of the most well-known objects from the Arab world and beyond: kohl containers. Kohl, kajal or surma is widely used to decorate eyes and eyelids. This practice dates back millennia; some of the oldest kohl containers come from ancient Egypt. Surprisingly enough however, no study into these items exited until now.

Kohl containers vary in size, shape and materials used throughout the regio under study in this book. By comparing their decoration and execution to that of other elements of costume and dress, it becomes possible to see where in the personal sphere these items belonged. In some countries, they are clearly at home in the realm of adornment and jewellery, while in other countries their place is more among dress and clothing. Associations like these tell us more about the values attached to these objects.

These values in turn are manifold. Throughout the book, their social and ritual values are presented and illustrated, but also their economical and technological values. In some countries, the containers are used in wedding rituals and as such imply a deeper meaning than just a container for make-up. This deeper level of meaning is also apparent in the many archaeological objects shown in the book, where protection and status were values closely connected to seemingly everyday utensils.

Beautifully illustrated and with a catalogue of over 30 objects, this book presents a unique overview of the history and use of kohl containers. I especially liked the intermittent ‘kohl stories’, in which an aspect of kohl (ancient and modern) is highlighted. This hardcover book will embellish your ethnographical library!

Here is a review of the book and photos of its UK launch in London, and here is a 13 minute podcast with the author about this topic.

Paint It, Black. A Biography of kohl containers, by Jolanda Bos (2019) Blikveld UItgevers Publishers

356 pp, full colour, in English. The book can be ordered directly with the publishers, via Oxbow books or via Casemate.

The book was a gift from the author and publisher.