CITES: what does it mean for collectors and museums?

collecting jewellery

CITES: what does it mean for collectors and museums?

Updated September 10, 2025

Another blog on conventions and laws that have an effect on collecting jewellery!

CITES – the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species – regulates how materials like coral, ivory, and tortoiseshell can be imported or traded. These rules affect not only new production but also antique and traditional jewellery. Collectors, museum staff, and researchers often encounter CITES regulations when dealing with older pieces that contain natural materials once widely used in adornment. Understanding how CITES applies to jewellery helps avoid legal pitfalls and ensures that the objects we value are handled responsibly.

In this article, I’ll walk you through the main aspects.

Disclaimer up front again: as I am a jewellery historian, this is not to be taken as legal advice. What I aim to do here, is give you a starting point to make your own informed choices. Just to be clear about that!

Also, this article may look like I’m rising new problems, while all you want to do is enjoy your collection. However, as long as we as humans keep overfishing, overmining, poaching, trafficking and generally depleting our planet, I personally believe it’s a good thing CITES regulations exist. And with a little awareness, it does not even have to be a giant issue for collectors – so let’s see how this works!

What is CITES? Understanding the convention on endangered species

CITES is short for the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). This convention, established in 1973, is an international agreement aimed at regulating the trade of wild animals and plants to ensure their survival in their natural habitats.

So, CITES is on plants and animals, not artifacts (like UNESCO 1970 is). How is CITES relevant for collectors of ethnic jewellery? Basically, that is because there is quite a lot of plants and animals present in jewellery.

Traditional Middle Eastern jewellery pieces may include elements like ivory, horns, and certain types of corals, which are subject to CITES regulations due to the risk to these wildlife populations. So, CITES does have significant implications for collectors of ethnic jewellery, particularly pieces that incorporate materials sourced from endangered or protected species.

The best way to stay informed is to check the CITES website here. (pro-tip: start with the Frequently Asked Questions)

But how does it work? I think the best way to show how, is through the example of coral. Coral is used a lot in jewellery from North Africa and the Middle East. Just think about necklaces from Yemen, Morocco, Algeria or Tunisia. And many of these jewellery items are old. How does old material relate to CITES?

CITES and coral in jewellery: antiques

According to CITES regulations, there is a difference between an antique, and a pre-convention piece. Heads up: that is yet another definition of antique – and not necessarily the one as used under UNESCO 1970.

An antique under CITES is a natural material that was removed before March 3, 1947, from its natural habitat. The material needs to have been altered significantly (for 90%, in fact), and it needs to have been used for jewellery, art, musical instruments, utensils and decorative objects.

So far, so good. Coral does not grow in beads, and needs to be worked to be used into jewellery.

CITES pre-convention pieces: when coral needs a licence

A pre-convention piece is natural material that was removed after March 3, 1947 from its natural habitat, but before the Convention kicked in. More specifically: before the material it is made of, was added to the CITES list. That is what makes it complicated: the list is continuously expanded, because more and more species become endangered. You could say that the complications with CITES-lists are a direct consequence of the way we treat our planet.

But, in any case: you’ll have to search for a specific material.

The Species+ – website is designed specifically to search for materials and their current status.

For both antique and pre-convention jewellery pieces, you may need a license to export them from, or import them into the EU.

Within the EU, antiques may be traded without EU-certificate. But: it needs to have entered the EU legally, and you’ll need proof that this is, in fact, antique. Pre-convention objects can only be traded with an EU-certificate. Here again, you’ll need proof of its age.

Are you outside the EU and importing jewellery into your own country? If it meets the CITES requirements, the sender will need a EU-certificate.

Why antique jewellery still matters for biodiversity under CITES

How does old jewellery relate to bioviversity…? After all, it has been taken from the sea over 50 years ago, so how is that relevant for today’s biodiversity? (you know I can hear you thinking, right…?) Surely, I can export or import that old coral necklace…? This is where repairs kick in. Because some of these coral species (mind you, not all!) are now endangered.

The relevance of CITES to old coral in jewellery is less about its impact on current biodiversity, and more about the broader principles of conservation and responsible trade. It also addresses the importance of preventing the continued exploitation of these species.

Coral is a particularly sensitive material, due to concerns about overharvesting, habitat destruction, and the impact on coral reef ecosystems.

And that exploitation can take serious black market forms, as this article illustrates. A recommended read: I found it quite shocking to learn how coral is poached and sold.

So, if your jewel itself is old, but has been repaired recently, using newly made beads of coral, it may be subject to CITES regulations.

What jewellery collectors must know: CITES requirements for importing jewellery

The key is to determine whether the specific species of coral (or other natural material) used in a piece of jewellery is protected under CITES, and whether the acquisition and trade of that coral adhere to the regulations in place at the time.

And, of course: you’ll need sound provenance.

I wish I could make this easier, but I can’t make anything else of it. Proper documentation showing the legal acquisition and provenance history of antique and old jewellery is essential to demonstrate compliance with CITES and other applicable laws.

And this, too, is a development that will only increase in importance in the future. Fighting illegal trade in both antiquities and endangered species is not only super important, but does have effect on jewellery collecting.

So, if you were thinking of starting with documenting your collection, it may be a good idea to keep an eye out for natural materials that may be protected under CITES: ivory, certain species of coral, rhino horn and tortoise shell being some of the materials that spring to mind.

Consult an expert where needed, but bear in mind that for CITES purposes, this person needs to have seen your object themselves. An online determination will not do, sadly.

You can also gather old photos, shipping and/or purchase slips, catalogues with information that feature your piece, anything that proves your piece is older than March 3, 1947, what is is made of and if it has been repaired in after 1947.

There is a lot you can do yourself, and with the help of an expert, the CITES regulations will be an extra step to take, but not a problem!

Frequently Asked Questions about CITES and jewellery

Q. What does CITES mean for jewellery collectors?
CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) regulates trade in materials that come from endangered plants and animals, such as ivory, coral, tortoiseshell, and certain types of shell. For collectors, this means you may need permits to legally buy, sell, or transport jewellery containing these materials.

Q. Which jewellery materials are restricted under CITES?
The most common CITES-restricted materials in jewellery are ivory, coral, tortoiseshell, and some species of shell. These restrictions vary depending on the species and the country. Always check the current CITES Appendices and your national legislation before purchasing or moving items.

Q. Do I need a CITES permit for antique jewellery?
Yes, in many cases even antique or vintage pieces require permits. Some exemptions exist, such as for worked specimens that meet strict age criteria (often 50 or 100 years old), but these must be properly documented.

Q. How do museums and private collectors comply with CITES?
Both museums and private collectors need to provide clear provenance and legal paperwork when acquiring, exhibiting, or transporting objects made from restricted materials. Without documentation, objects risk being confiscated or barred from trade and exhibition.

Q. How can I find out if my jewellery contains CITES-listed materials?
If you’re unsure whether your jewellery contains materials such as ivory, coral, or tortoiseshell, consult a qualified appraiser or specialist. Museums, conservation organisations, and certified labs may also provide material identification services.

CITES, jewellery, and the balance between nature and culture

For anyone interested in traditional adornment, or other historic pieces containing coral, ivory or shell, CITES is more than abstract legislation. It directly shapes how we buy, sell, and move jewellery across borders. Knowing the difference between antique exemptions, pre-convention pieces, and items that need a CITES licence can save collectors time and protect against costly mistakes.

Beyond compliance, these rules remind us that jewellery is not only cultural heritage but also part of the natural world. Paying attention to biodiversity and conservation ensures that the jewellery we cherish today can be appreciated responsibly by generations to come.

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