What is an amulet in jewellery? Meaning and tradition

What is an amulet in jewellery? Meaning and tradition

by | Magic & Amulets

Amulets and charms

What is an amulet in jewellery? Meaning and tradition

Published Feb 5, 2025

When you have been following this blog for a while, you know that the use of jewellery in informal ritual is one of my main research themes. Jewellery is so powerful when it has the role of amulet! But what is an amulet, exactly…? And what forms can it take? Let’s dive into that in this blog!

In this post, I’ll explore what amulets are, how they function in jewellery, and the many forms they take — from silver cases with inscriptions, to stones like carnelian or turquoise, to simple objects gathered from meaningful places. This blog is a great starting point for my wider exploration of amulets in jewellery traditions across North Africa and Southwest Asia, as it lays the foundation for understanding the world of amulets. At the end of this article, I’ll wrap everything up in a FAQ-section.

What is an amulet? Definitions and cultural meanings

Basically, an amulet is an object that is believed to provide protection, good fortune, or other benefits to its wearer. The word “amulet” derives from the Latin amuletum, which historically referred to an object worn to safeguard against harm.

They go by many names in the region: hirz, higāb, taweez or telsim are just a few of the indications for an amulet. [1] Amulets can take many forms, including inscriptions, gemstones, metals, or organic materials.

While their function varies across different traditions, the common thread is their role as a source of protection and well-being.

Amulets in jewellery: general forms and protective symbols

These objects are part of a longstanding tradition, where materials, shapes, and inscriptions are believed to offer protection, bring blessings, and keep evil away. And that long tradition is, in some cases, so old, that their meaning has changed over time.

Throughout history, specific symbols have persisted in jewellery designs, often without people fully remembering their original meanings. The triangle, for example, appears in numerous regional traditions. It may signify stability, fertility, or protection, depending on the cultural and historical context.

This post about the origin of the triangle shape shows you an example of how that works!

Dots, waves, and geometric patterns are also widespread, and while interpretations vary, their continued use indicates a shared understanding of their beneficial properties. Such motifs are deeply embedded in the visual language of jewellery, passed down through generations as carriers of protection and good fortune.

Amulets with inscriptions: Qur’anic verses and protective texts

What comes to mind often as the first thing when talking about amulets, are pieces containing inscriptions—verses from religious texts, prayers, or symbols created by practitioners skilled in their craft. These talismans are often written on parchment or metal, folded, and enclosed within amulet containers.

See more about those, and the history hidden in their shape, in this blog.

The inscriptions may include verses from the Qur’an, invocations for protection, or numerical and geometric configurations believed to protect. Such inscriptions are considered deeply personal and are rarely shared or displayed openly.

Should you open amulet containers…? Read more about that here!

But there is much, much more in jewellery that may function as an amulet.

Silver, stones, and organic materials in amuletic jewellery

The choice of material is another key factor in amuletic jewellery. Certain stones and metals are believed to hold inherent protective properties.

Silver, for example, is widely used for its association with purity and its supposed ability to ward off harm. Carnelian, turquoise, and amber are frequently incorporated into rings, necklaces, and bracelets due to their perceived protective and healing properties.

Organic materials, such as coral or specific animal parts, are also sometimes used, reflecting an understanding of the natural world as a source of power and protection.

Continuity and change in amulet traditions over time

The thing is, those capacities attributed to materials change significantly over time and per place. So, what may be important in one timeframe, may not carry the same meaning three centuries later, or 20 kilometres away. The power of amulets changes along with its humans, and while these traditions have deep historical roots, they continue to evolve.

They are also prone to commercialisation and marketing: see this article on why pink eye beads really are not a thing!

Understanding the cultural context of jewellery and amulets is crucial if you want to catch a glimpse of the lives of their wearers.

Locality and place: how geography shapes amulets in jewellery

That context sometimes is the literal, actual context of the person who once wore a piece of jewellery. And that is when it gets even more interesting: when we’re looking at materials that seem totally insignificant of themselves. Like pebbles, pieces of flint, a twig of a tree…what could possibly be the value in that, and how would we know? The significance of an amulet is often rooted in local geography: in many traditions, an object gains its power not only from its shape or material but from its origin.

A ritual specialist may prescribe that a piece of flint or a twig must be gathered from a specific location—perhaps a wadi, a mountain pass, or near an ancient well—because that place is believed to hold particular energy or spiritual potency.

This connection between amulets and their place of origin reflects a broader belief that land, history, and spirituality are intertwined. For those who wear these objects, the amulets serve as reminders of their place in the world and the protective forces believed to be inherent in their surroundings.

That is a most beautiful form of connection, and one that is most difficult to interpret for cultural outsiders, too. Sometimes, we are left with nothing more than what looks like a simple pebble, that once meant to world to someone. And when we only look at jewellery as adornment, something as worthless as a regular pebble gets discarded or deselected – its personal and cultural value goes unrecognised.

Frequently Asked Questions about amulets in jewellery

Q: What is an amulet in jewellery?
An amulet in jewellery is an object worn for protection, good fortune, or spiritual benefit. It can take any form imagineable, from religious texts to meaningful objects.

Q: How are amulets different from charms or talismans?
That depends on which definition is used. Broadly speaking, a charm often attracts good luck, while a talisman is made to bring about a specific effect. An amulet is usually worn to protect its wearer from harm or negative forces.

Q: What materials are used for amulets in jewellery?
A wide range of stones such as carnelian, turquoise, and amber, each valued for their individual properties; organic materials such as coral or wood; specific metals such as gold, silver, iron and aluminium for particular circumstances; and any and all materials that hold meaning to the wearer.

Q: Do amulet traditions change over time?
Yes. The meaning and use of amulets vary across regions and periods. A stone or shape that carried power in one century or location might mean something different elsewhere. There is no one-size-fits-all explanation for amulets.

Conclusion: what is an amulet in jewellery?

This short exploration has shown you that everything can be an amulet. Literally everything. Whether it is, depends on so many factors: its material, its symbolism, its cultural context, the process through which it became an amulet, and its importance to its wearer.

I think you may be able to relate to that: we all have that one thing, that ‘lucky charm’ that we carry with us during job interviews or when we travel. It does not even have to be jewellery, it can be a pair of socks, even…but when it makes us feel safer, comforts us or brings us happiness, it is effectively an amulet. But when that pair of socks ends up in the laundry after your trip, can anyone  tell their specific importance they hold, but you yourself?

This ‘extra’ use is one of the things that makes jewellery much more than an accessory. It is a repository of cultural memory, identity, spiritual belief, and protective symbolism. Amulets in jewellery are not a side story — they are at the very heart of how jewellery functions in culture.

In North Africa and Southwest Asia, amuletic jewellery has played an essential role in everyday life for a very long time. Jewellery shaped both personal and communal identity, functioned as portable asset, and served protective and symbolic functions simultaneously. I love that multifaceted nature of jewellery!

Amulets and charms in jewellery: learn to decode jewellery yourself!

If you are intrigued by the history, meaning, and traditions behind amuletic jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, an in-depth exploration awaits! The online course on Amulets & Charms delves into the fascinating world of talismans, charms, and protective adornments, offering detailed insights into their cultural contexts and historical significance. Whether you are a collector, a jewellery enthusiast, or simply curious, this course provides the tools to deepen your understanding and appreciation.

Click here to see more, and enroll today to uncover the hidden stories behind these remarkable objects – you could be watching the first episode in 10 minutes from now!

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References

[1] See Garcia Probert 2021, p. 55 for a discussion

The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Ancient jewellery: Syria

Ancient jewellery: Syria

by | Cultures & People

Jewellery history of the Levant

Ancient jewellery from Syria

Published Feb 2, 2025

When we think about the history of jewellery, Syria offers some of the richest finds in the region. From the earliest shell beads along the Euphrates to the magnificent adornment on Palmyra’s funerary busts, jewellery has been a constant presence in Syrian history. It tells us about daily life, trade connections, and cultural identity across thousands of years.

In this post, I’ll explore the role of ancient Syrian jewellery in different eras: from Bronze Age tombs at Ebla and Ugarit, to Roman-era sites such as Dura Europos, and into the splendour of medieval goldsmithing in Raqqa.

This blog is part of my Ancient Jewellery series, exploring how adornment shaped identity across the Middle East and Mediterranean. You can also read about ancient jewellery from Iraq, Egypt, Lebanon, Palestine and more to come!

Early jewellery history of Syria: shell beads & adornment

The geographical area which is now Syria is, historically, part of the larger Syro-Palestinian cultural sphere. Like in many other regions, shell beads are among the oldest forms of personal adornment in Syria.

In southwestern Syria, shell beads from three archaeological sites in the foothills of the Anti-Lebanon mountain range tell us more about the importance of personal adornment at the end of the Paleolithic, some 11,000 years ago.

A rock shelter at Baaz, and two caves at Kozah and Ain Dabbour yielded large quantities of shell beads. These were not simply made of leftover shells after food production: analysis has shown the majority of the shells came from the Mediterranean, some 90 kilometres and two mountain ranges away!

Bronze Age jewellery in Syria: Ebla and the Euphrates

Syria is home to some of the earliest farming communities on the banks of the river al-Furat, or Euphrates. Here, settlements developed into true city-states, and by 3,500 BCE current Tell Mardikh was the seat of one of these internationally orientated kingdoms: Ebla. The kingdom traded with Cyprus, Egypt, Afghanistan and Sumer in current-day Iraq, which is clearly visible from the archives excavated in the city.

What we also learn from the archives is the value of precious commodities such as personal adornment. Daggers, their belts and the connecting suspension hooks seem to have been worn as status symbol and as carrier of identity, a practice reminiscent of the Omani and Yemeni jambiya or khanjar. Ornamental discs of silver or gold, inlaid with precious stones, were as common as bracelets, which are described as having eagle-headed terminals.

What is even more fascinating is the glimpse of a redistribution economy the archives offer: jewellery is regularly melted down in exchange for other pieces. One example mentions the melting of three silver bracelets to obtain three decorative discs in low-grade gold.

Beads and jewellery of Bronze Age Syria: Ugarit and Qatna

The royal tombs of Ebla contained gold jewellery, which was also found in the city of Ugarit in modern-day Ras Shamra. Here, goldsmiths employed filigree and granulation, as can be seen on the pair of crescent earrings shown above: a type that is still current in Syria today. In northern Syria, burials such as found at Tell Sabi Abyad show a wide variety in jewellery: bracelets and anklets in bronze, gold, or even iron, hairpins and combs, necklaces, pendants and beads of stone, glass, faience, shell and gold.

The length and width of the trade networks is demonstrated by the royal tomb at Qatna, current-day Tell Mishrife, where amber beads were identified as coming from the Baltic area. Interestingly, this tomb also contained various beads and pendants of a blue-greenish material set in gold: instead of turquoise, this is variscite, which apparently was valued for its close resemblance to turquoise.

Gold earrings excavated in Syria, dating to 200 - 300 CE

Dura Europos and Syrian jewellery in the Roman world

In the utmost east of Syria, on the banks of the Euphrates, a city was built by the Seleucids around 300 BCE. It was conquered by the Romans in the 2nd century CE, and finally destoyed by the Sassanids in the 3rd century. Called Dura Europos, this was a cosmopolitan city with temples for Graeco-Roman, Mesopotamian and Persian gods as well as a church and a synagogue.

Throughout the city, jewellery was found during excavations: lost pieces or treasures stashed away in hoards. Besides these actual pieces, the city also has numerous wall paintings showing how jewellery and dress were worn. Here, we find Roman fibulae or clothing pins indicating a strong military presence, and key-shaped rings. These were used as actual keys and are therefore very telling items: they clearly signal the wearer owned valuable items.

Silver rings with intaglios in semiprecious stones or glass show the variety of the Graeco-Roman pantheon, and bracelets with terminals in the shape of snake-heads are reminiscent of bracelets as they are still worn today.

Palmyra jewellery: funerary busts and cultural identity

In the Roman city of Palmyra, elite ladies had themselves portrayed on funerary busts. These show a mixture of Roman, Persian and Indian jewellery styles and clothing and served to show the considerable wealth of the inhabitants of the city.

These busts were originally painted in bright colours, which gives us an idea of the splendor worn. They also form an interesting way of expressing identity. While in other parts of the Roman Empire women would not be shown wearing large quantities of jewellery to underscore their feminine virtues, in Palmyra the opposite was true: the more jewellery, the more honourable the lady wearing it. Here, we see how local forms of expression are used to convey similar concepts.

Medieval Syrian goldsmithing: Raqqa and the Fatimid period

During the Middle Ages, Raqqa was an important center for goldsmithing. Many jewellery pieces from the Fatimid dynasty (909-1171) have been created either in Egypt or Syria: the difference is indistinguishable. The jewellery of this period is exceptionally finely made, using wire filigree and granulation. Not much of it survived, as it was mostly melted down in later periods. The openwork filigree of the Fatimids continued to be produced under the Ottomans, albeit less delicate and in completely different shapes, and so continued into the traditional jewellery of our time.

Ancient jewellery of Syria: heritage and preservation

The story of ancient jewellery in Syria spans millennia. Shell beads from the Euphrates show how even the simplest ornaments carried meaning. Bronze Age sites such as Ebla and Ugarit reveal jewellery as a marker of wealth and ritual. Palmyra’s busts preserve a vivid record of local jewellery styles, while finds from Dura Europos place Syria in the wider Roman world. In the medieval period, Raqqa’s workshops highlight Syria’s role as a centre of fine goldsmithing.

Taken together, these finds show that jewellery in Syria was never just about adornment. It was a language of identity, status, and belief — and one that continues to connect us to the people of the past. By tracing Syria’s jewellery from beads to busts and beyond, we see how deeply woven adornment is into the story of human culture.

The many years of devastating war in Syria have not only destroyed the age-old suqs, but also severely impacted older heritage. Museums have been looted and are slowly beginning to be rebuilt where possible. Jewellery forms part of the millennia old heritage of a country where civilization began: keeping this heritage alive has never more been important and urgent than it is now.

More jewellery from Syria? You might also like Silversmiths of Deir ez-Zor

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References

This is an updated, adapted and expanded version of a blog I wrote earlier for the Zay Initiative.

Abe, Y. et al. 2019. Use of variscite as a gemstone in the Late Bronze Age Royal Tomb at Qatna, Syria, in: Journal of Archaeological Science: Reports 27, 1-6

Düring, B., E. Visser & P. Akkermans 2015. Skeletons in the fortress: the Late Bronze Age burials of Tell Sabi Abyad, Syria, in: Levant 47:1, 30-50

Fortin, M. (ed) 1999. Syria. Land of Civilizations. Les Éditions de l’Homme

Kaizer, T. (ed) 2016. Religion, Society and Culture at Dura-Europos. Cambridge University Press.

Kalter, J. 1992. The Arts and Crafts of Syria, Edition Hansjörg Mayer, Stuttgart/London

Kandel, A.W. et al 2017. Epipaleolithic shell beads from Damascus Province, Syria, in: Quaternary International 464, 126-140

Klaver, S. 2019. Women in Roman Syria. The cases of Dura-Europos, Palmyra and Seleucia on the Euphrates. PhD-thesis, University of Amsterdam

Maiocchi, M. 2010. Decorative parts and precious artifacts at Ebla, in: Journal of Cuneiform Studies 62, 1-24

Mukherjee, A. et al. 2008. The Qatna lion: scientific confirmation of Baltic amber in Late Bronze Age Syria, in: Antiquity 82, pp. 49-59

Prévalet, R. 2009. Preliminary observation on three Late Bronze Age gold items from Ras Shamra (Ugarit), in: ArcheoSciences 33. Access this publication here.

The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Jewellery and the senses: sound

Jewellery and the senses: sound

by | General jewellery topics

Sensory research

Jewellery and the senses: sound

Published on January 28, 2025

Ethnic jewellery is often studied for its aesthetic, symbolic, and material qualities. But there is much more to it, that is difficult to study from a book or when a jewel is lying in a museum case…and that is the sensory experiences it evokes for its wearers and the people around it. And imagine, for archaeological jewellery that is even harder, as there is no one left to ask! So, I wanted to introduce the relationship between jewellery and the senses: what did a piece of jewellery mean for its wearer? And what do we miss out as researchers and collectors, coming from another culture or timeframe? In this fourth article, we’ll look at sound.

Why study jewellery and sound?

Jewellery is not just a visual or tactile experience; it engages the sense of hearing as well. The jingling of bells, the clinking of chains, and the resonant hum of metallic discs brushing against one another are very important. They do something: they transform jewellery into an interactive and performative medium. That means that a piece of jewellery becomes much more than just a form of adornment: it is part of a living, moving cultural context. It moves along with its wearer, and it jingles!

In the Middle East and North Africa, where oral traditions, music, and rhythm are part and parcel of cultural expression, the sounds produced by jewellery play a significant role in daily life. Sound, by its very nature, requires interaction between object and wearer. Jewellery does not create sound when it’s lying around: it’s that interaction between human and thing again that makes jewellery into something more.

So that makes it a fascinating lens through which to study jewellery’s social and symbolic functions.

Sound: wearing sound in the Middle East

In many communities, jewellery that produces sound is not just a personal accessory but an extension of the wearer’s identity. The particular jingling, clinking, or ringing of a piece can make someone recognizable even before they appear in sight. If you are one of those people that loves to wear tons of jewellery, you know what I’m talking about…!

In this sense, jewellery becomes a kind of auditory signature, a way for individuals to announce their presence or movements. The tinkling sound of anklets for example would indicate to a mother where her child was playing (and all mothers know that when the sounds stops, it’s definitely time to go and check out what they’re doing!).

Wearing sound: dance

Obviously, dance provides a particularly vivid context in which jewellery’s auditory qualities come to life. The jingling of coins on belts or the clinking of bracelets creates an interplay between the dancer’s body and the ornaments they wear.

As such, they also contribute to the performance by creating an immersive sensory experience for the audience. The sound of jewellery becomes part of the rhythm, reinforcing the connection between dancer, music, and the spectators.

Wearing sound: amulets

As you know, jewellery almost always serves a protective function. And that definitely includes sound. Those small bells or coins attached to necklaces, bracelets, or anklets have as additional effect that they repel negative energies or the “evil eye.”

See more about amulets here!

Sound has the power to influence unseen forces – they will be scared off. Sound creates an audible barrier, and so you will find dangles and other jingling elements quite often in jewellery.

Jewellery and sound as a research field

Unlike visual or material qualities, sound (much like smell) is fleeting. You really need to experience jewellery in its original world, to get an idea of what its auditory capacities are. That is because jewellery is part of a living, breathing community: we often find it solitary depicted in books or showcased in exhibitions, but it is meant to move, shake and shimmy!

So how to go about that? Apart from listening to your jewellery itself, here context is everything. This is a topic where you’d need to dive into the world of everyday life: are there any references to the sound of jewellery in poetry, songs, sayings and expressions? How far does sound carry in the everyday surroundings where the jewellery was worn? Would it have been muffled by the fabric of clothing, are there occasions where sound is inappropriate? Does jewellery made of high-grade silver sound differently than jewellery of low-grade silver or base metal – can you distinguish between social statuses just by listening to the sound of jewellery…?

Jewellery never is just adornment – it is an unalienable part of its community, and that goes for its temporary capacities, too.

Jewellery and sound: an auditory world of meaning

So, by exploring the relationship between jewellery and sound, we may gain a deeper understanding of how these objects were experienced in their original contexts. It also helps us to consider what is lost when jewellery is removed from its sensory and cultural environment. That goes for all the sensory capacities of jewellery, of course, but when jewellery falls silent, we really miss out!

Read the earlier blogs on the sensory aspects of jewellery here:

Sight

Touch

Smell

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Would you like to quote this article? Please do! Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

The Fascination of Jewellery

The Fascination of Jewellery

by | European jewellery, Museums & Exhibitions

7,000 years of jewellery art

The Fascination of Jewellery

Published January 1, 2025

An exhibition of 7,000 years of jewellery: of course, I had to go and see that! The Cologne Museum of Applied Arts (MAKK) devoted an exhibition based on its own formidable collection of jewellery. It turned out to be a beautiful, albeit very classic, jewellery exhibition.

The MAKK jewellery collection

The MAKK holds around 1,700 pieces of jewellery in its collection. As this is a design museum (and so not specifically a jewellery or historic museum), and the collection has been built by both acquisition and generous gifts, the collection reflects a traditional European viewpoint of jewellery: Antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the 19th century form its focal points. [1]

The geographical focus of all this is profoundly European [2]: among the antiquities, there are of course pieces from the ancient civilizations in North Africa and Southwest Asia – these were avidly collected in Europe.

The ‘cross-cultural content’ of the exhibition, as mentioned on the exhibition website, therefore is to be seen as more cross-cultural within Europe, rather than cross-cultural as in: including non-Western cultures.

7,000 years of jewellery art in the MAKK

The exhibition itself is organised thematically as well as chronologically. This works very well: each showcase is devoted to a theme, which itself is then built up chronologically. The texts with each theme are very accessible and enlighting.

I loved that the exhibition started out with amulets as one of the first themes – one of my favourite capacities of jewellery! See a few of these in the gallery above: click to enlarge the images. Other themes include rings, mourning jewellery, inspiration from flora and fauna, as well as more stylistic developments such as the emergence of archaeologically inspired jewellery, Art Nouveau and mass-produced jewellery. A series of modern designs finally showcases contemporary takes on themes such as identity, the relation to the human body and intricate constructions.

The Fascination of Jewellery: the dreamed potential

I very much enjoyed seeing all of these stunning jewellery items and wandering through themes and time-periods. What I missed however, was an opportunity to highlight the meaning of jewellery beyond the art-historian.

For the Middle Ages for example, the art of enamelling in southern Europe and North Africa forms a technical connection between worlds that could have enhanced the exhibition, and the stylistic impact of the steppe peoples from Central Asia on early medieval jewellery is a beautiful illustration of how worlds are connected rather than separated.

And if ever there was a category of jewellery that underscores identity, it would be regional dress and adornment. The regional jewellery of the German-speaking world alone is so rich and varied, that attention to this jewellery, of more common people, could have added another layer of significance to the exhibition.

Of course, I understand that the collection of the MAKK formed the backbone of this exhibition, and also that this is one of the most respected collections of European jewellery – the jewellery shown in the exhibition is stunning and a privilege to study, no argument there. But with even a few loans from other collections, I think this particular exhibition could have transcended to an even more meaningful goal: building bridges in an increasingly fragmenting society – through jewellery. Illustrating how techniques, forms and designs form part of a shared cultural background of 7,000 years is, or could have been, an incredibly powerful message.

The Fascination of Jewellery: the catalogue

Despite my personal daydream of what a jewellery exhibition could offer, the objects on display are absolutely fabulous. Every single piece of jewellery is breathtaking!And so, I always hope for a catalogue with a jewellery exhibition.

Now one of the great things about exhibitions in German museums happens to be the catalogues, and the book that comes with this exhibition is no exception. It’s a huge, beautiful volume of more than 350 pages, entirely bilingual in German and English, and presents beautiful, crisp photos of the exhibited jewellery along with well-researched and insightful texts. It offers background on the collection strategy, has an introductory chapter on the collection itself by none other than Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, and gives ample explanations with every piece of jewellery featured.

The Fascination of Jewellery: 7,000 years of jewellery art

You will love this exhibition for the quality of its jewellery, offered to a wide public through easily digestible texts and themes. Wandering across the beautifully lit and designed showcases, you will get a great introduction into European jewellery throughout the ages. The catalogue that goes with the exhibition is a must if you work with European jewellery in any capacity! And even though I would have let this spectacular jewellery collection be the inspiration for a different type of exhibition myself, I had a great time – and I’m convinced you will, too.

The Fascination of Jewellery. 7,000 years of jewellery at the MAKK.

I visited the exhibition on my own initiative on Dec 28th, 2024, and purchased the catalogue myself.

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The Fascination of Jewellery: references

[1] Focal points as mentioned on the website of the museum, accessed January 1st, 2025.

[2] As explained in the catalogue, p. 14/15.

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Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Clove jewellery: fragrant necklaces in Middle Eastern & North African traditions

Clove jewellery: fragrant necklaces in Middle Eastern & North African traditions

by | Objects

The power of spices

Cloves in jewellery from North Africa & the Middle East

Updated September 19, 2025

Cloves are not only a spice that fills kitchens with fragrance — they have also found their way into jewellery. From Morocco to Palestine, cloves were strung into necklaces known as qiladet qrunful, worn as amulets, wedding jewellery, and telling of the intimacy between spouses. These clove necklaces are a beautiful example of how everyday materials can carry deep symbolic meaning in Middle Eastern and North African jewellery traditions, so let’s look at their use and history!

What are cloves used for in history and medicine?

Cloves were imported from India as early as the Middle Ages: in the 13th century, tax lists from the port of Aden, in Yemen, include clove as medicinal spices [1], and in Malaga, in Spain, the pharmacist Ibn al-Baitar included clove in his overview of medicinal plants, herbs and spices. [2]

The medicinal use of clove is often also based in its fragrance alone. An example from early 20th century Palestine says that if a child has diarrhoea, it needs to have a dough pie filled with mutton, onions, cinnamon, cloves and other herbs broken open above its face, so that the child may smell it. [3]

Cloves in jewellery across North Africa & the Middle East

Cloves were used in jewellery early, too. A string of cloves was excavated in Qaw el-Kebir, Egypt, and dates to the 5th – 7th century. [4] In the 10th century, Abbasid author al-Washsha described what elegant people in the city of Baghdad would wear.

“Their well-known way of dressing themselves in jewelry arranged as necklaces consists of wearing chokers with fermented cloves, long necklaces of camphor and ambergris, chains of interlaced pearls, necklaces from which hang notched boxes with amulets, others decorated with twisted ribbons of gold, or of silk woven into the form of a chain…” [5]

That is a ton of scent described right there! I liked the description of fragrant jewellery worn together with precious materials like gold and silver, because that is still very much the case in 19th and early 20th jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia. See for example the scented paste beads, beautifully strung with pearls and coral, in this article.

Cloves and Palestinian wedding traditions

I love how cloves signify the bond between women in Palestinian wedding traditions. Here, clove necklaces are part of wedding adornment. They are threaded onto necklaces by a double thread, that runs through both ends of the clove. To pierce the cloves, they had to be soaked in water first, and in some cases, it is said that the bride used this scented water on the day of her wedding.

Other traditions note that a Palestinian father would pay for these necklaces, both for his daughter and her female relatives and friends, as a sign of his appreciation for their friendship. That creates an entirely different level of expression and communication: that bond is emphasised by fragrance throughout the wedding ceremonies.

The close relation between cloves and weddings is visible in the memory of Wardeh, a Palestinian woman, who after her engagement went to buy cloves for necklaces, along with henna, indigo, tea herbs and amulet beads on the spice market. [6]

Cloves as amulets in Palestinian culture

Cloves were also believed to keep evil at a distance through their smell alone. [7] The necklaces worn on weddings were also powerful amulets against the Qarina, a spirit who harmed young children and expectant mothers. As such, they were worn after the wedding, too.

That use as amulet could also be achieved by simply wearing cloves in a pouch on the body, together with pepper and beads believed to ward off the evil eye. [8] These were amulets that wearers would create themselves, using supplies that were readily available in the market.

Clove jewellery as a sign of marriage and intimacy

The scent of clove has another capacity, too: it is believed to work as an aphrodisiac – something that inspires mutual attraction and sensuality. Unsurprisingly, you’ll find these in jewellery for married women – it protects from the Qarina and other jealous spirits, while also inspiring the love of a husband.

An example is the necklace above, which is from Morocco: here, the cloves were pierced lengthwise and threaded to form a ball. You’ll find cloves strung alongside coral, enameled elements and even gold throughout North Africa: they were an integral part of married life.

Clove jewellery: fleeting scent, enduring heritage

Clove jewellery may seem unusual today, but in the past it carried powerful layers of meaning. Whether protecting brides from spirits, marking a wedding bond, or simply delighting with its fragrance, the qiladet qrunful shows us how jewellery is never just adornment.

Even something as humble as a clove could become a cherished amulet or wedding necklace, woven into the cultural memory of Palestine and beyond. By looking closely at these fragrant jewels, we rediscover how symbolic and intimate jewellery traditions once were — and they continue to inspire today!

Frequently Asked Questions about clove jewellery

What is a qiladet qrunful?
A qiladet qrunful is a clove necklace traditionally worn in Palestine. It is often part of wedding jewellery and symbolises both protection and intimacy, as cloves were believed to repel spirits and carried a pleasant fragrance.

Why are cloves used in jewellery?
Cloves have long been valued for their strong scent and medicinal properties. In jewellery, they were used as amulets against harmful spirits, as well as symbols of love, fertility, and the bond between spouses.

Where is clove jewellery found?
Clove jewellery appears in North African and Middle Eastern traditions. Examples are recorded from Morocco, Palestine, and other parts of the region where cloves were imported as valuable spices.

Is clove jewellery still worn today?
While rare today, clove necklaces survive in museum collections and family heirlooms. They are an important reminder of how everyday materials like spices could carry deep symbolic meaning in jewellery.

What does clove jewellery symbolise in marriage?
In Palestinian tradition, clove necklaces were worn by brides as a sign of marriage and intimacy. The fragrance of the cloves was thought to protect the couple while also symbolising closeness and affection.

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References

[1] Herbal Medicine in Yemen, p. 27.

[2] Mouhajir, F. 2002. Medicinal plants used by Berber and Arab People of Morocco, PhD thesis, University of British Columbia, p. 11.

[3] British Museum, inv. no. OA.882. The string was on display in the exhibition Silk Roads in the British Museum.

[4] Granqvist, H. 1950, Child Problems Among The Arabs, p. 97

[5] Williams, E.D. 2015. Worldly Adornments: Women’s Precious Metal Jewelry in the Early Medieval Eastern Mediterranean (500-1100 CE). PhD thesis, New York University, p. 47

[6] Kawar, W.D. Threads of Identity, p. 330.

[7] Garcia Probert 2021, Exploring the Life of Amulets in Palestine, PhD-thesis Leiden University, p. 247

[7] Garcia Probert 2021, Exploring the Life of Amulets in Palestine, PhD-thesis Leiden University, p. 236

The Bedouin Silver blog gives credit where credit is due! Transparent referencing and citing sources helps us all grow. Would you like to do the same and quote this article? Here’s how:

S. van Roode, [write the title as you see it above this post], published on the Bedouin Silver website [paste the exact link to this article], accessed on [the date you are reading this article and decided it was useful for you].

The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

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