Silver grooming sets from Afghanistan: everyday tools with many meanings

Vanity and faith

Silver grooming sets from Afghanistan: everyday tools with many meanings

Published May 27, 2025

Among the many forms of Afghan silver jewellery, one of the most charming is the silver grooming set. You’ll find them every now and then for sale on the Internet, and their description usually does not extend beyond ‘Kuchi grooming set’ or ‘Kuchi earspoon’. At first sight, these small pendants might look like simple trinkets, but they combine multiple roles: they were functional tools for personal care, amulets believed to offer protection, and jewellery worn as part of dress. Exploring them reveals how everyday objects could hold layered meanings in traditional Afghan culture, so let’s have a look at these!

Silver grooming tools from Afghanistan and cultural traditions

What do these tools look like? Typically, you’ll see them as an earspoon and a toothpick suspended from a ring: that is the basic pairing of tools. More elaborate sets also carry a pair of tweezers, they may be combined with other items such as perfume containers or kohl applicators.

Their use is not limited to Afghanistan, you’ll find these tiny items in many cultures around the world. And in all those cultures, their execution and style places them in the realm of jewellery: they have been designed and produced in the same styles as the local jewellery has.

They are small and portable, practical in everyday life, but also for hosting: Janata mentions that wealthier families in Afghanistan would have a set of these in their guest chambers – how’s that for hospitality? [1] The toothpick and earspoon allowed the user to maintain personal hygiene throughout the day, and were worn by both men and women. [2] And there is more to these than just vanity. In staying clean, one was also protecting oneself from the dangers of impurity – both social and spiritual. So, how does that work?

A vintage silver earspoon from Afghanistan against a black background. The earspoon has two sets of tiny bells on either side, and is decorated with red, green and blue glass. Below the image is a caption, clearly listing the photo credentials. The caption reads: Silver earspoon from Afghanistan. Collection Qilada Foundation. Photo by Sigrid van Roode'.

A vintage silver grooming set from Afghanistan against a black background. The set shows an earspoon and a toothpick, both decorated with lots of tiny bells and.red, green and orange glass. Below the image is a caption, clearly listing the photo credentials. The caption reads: Silver grooming set from Afghanistan. Collection Qilada Foundation. Photo by Sigrid van Roode'.

A vintage silver toothpick from Afghanistan against a black background. The toothpick is decorated with red, green and blue glass. Below the image is a caption, clearly listing the photo credentials. The caption reads: Silver toothpick from Afghanistan. Collection Qilada Foundation. Photo by Sigrid van Roode'.

Spiritual and protective roles of Afghan silver grooming sets

You might think these are just vanity sets, aimed at keeping presentable throughout the day. But that is not all they do. In the Islamic tradition, personal hygiene is not a superficial concern. Cleanliness is repeatedly emphasized in religious texts: not only as a virtue, but as a form of protection. It’s believed that jinn are particularly attracted to filth and unclean environments. [3]

In this context, grooming is not just self-care; it’s spiritual defence. These silver tools were made for precisely that purpose: to maintain cleanliness in everyday situations as an act of faith.

But…that is also where the dilemma is.

The dilemma of beauty and the Evil Eye

Because these are pretty things, they may be dangerous. Jinn enjoy dirt, but they also love shining objects. Beauty attracts their jealousy and brings danger to humans. And these silver earspoons, tweezers, toothpicks….they shine!

In many communities across North Africa and Southwest Asia, beauty is not seen as harmless. It draws attention – and attention can bring harm. The concept of the evil eye (see much more about that in this blog article) is widespread, and believed to affect those who are particularly fortunate, healthy, or aesthetically pleasing. Shiny objects, in particular, are thought to attract jinn or malicious spirits, which are drawn to brightness.

And even worse, jinn may possess humans by entering them through the openings in the body: nose, ears, mouth…exactly those places you would be caring for with one of these tools. What if your shining, gleaming earspoon actually guides a jinn to your body?

How to reconcile these two points of view?

From grooming tools to Afghan silver jewellery and amulets

The solution is elegant and simple: they were made with built-in amuletic features. Tiny bells were attached, not just for aesthetic pleasure, but for their sound, intended to scare off harmful spirits. Beads in blue, a colour commonly associated with protective properties in the region, were also common. Red glass insets flash like a warning sign.

In this way, these grooming tools are hybrid objects. They are tools of hygiene and piety, but also talismans of protection. Their ambiguous nature reflects the balance their wearers sought to maintain: to remain clean and healthy, without drawing negative attention through their beauty.

Why Afghan silver grooming sets matter: context is everything

Silver grooming sets from Afghanistan blur the lines between the everyday and the symbolic. They were tools for hygiene, pieces of Afghan silver jewellery, and objects of faith. For the Kuchi and other Afghan communities, their value lay not only in their usefulness but also in their role as protective amulets. They are examples of how the everyday object, in traditional cultures, is rarely just ‘everyday’.

To use an earspoon or toothpick was not a private act of vanity. It has cultural and religious significance, too. It was part of being a clean, pious, and protected person. This dual role of ordinary objects is often overlooked, but once you catch a glimpse of the context they were used in, they make much more sense – and become even more meaningful!

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References

[1] Janata, A. 1981. Silberschmuck aus Afghanistan, Graz, p. 180.

[2] Idem, p. 180.

[3] See my book Silver & Frankincense on how this works, or join the course on Scents of the Middle East

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The Bedouin Silver Jewellery Blog: Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on jewellery, informal ritual and collections. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only. Sigrid strongly believes in accessibility of knowledge, and aims to provide reliable and trustworthy content: that’s why the Bedouin Silver blog provides references and citations.

Mermaid imagery in Egyptian amulets: protection & meaning

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Magic & Amulets

Water spirits

Mermaid imagery in Egyptian amulets: protection & meaning

Updated September 14, 2025

The terrifying truth behind mermaid imagery! At the end of the 19^th century, silver amulets with images of mermaids were widely available in Egypt’s jewellery souks. In Egyptian folklore, water spirits and protective amulets went hand in hand: images of mermaids were believed to guard against illness, child mortality, and misfortune. Their blend of folklore, protection, and jewellery makes mermaid imagery on amulets especially fascinating. Why were these so popular, and what world hides behind the use of these things?

Water spirits, the Nile, and mermaid beliefs in Egyptian folklore

Obviously, the Nile has always been a defining factor for Egypt. It’s a bit of a cliché, but Egypt would not exist without the river. Up until the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1902, Egypt was dependent upon the yearly flooding of the river to deposit fertile soil on the banks of the Nile, and much of daily life on the river banks was connected to it. This vital significance has resulted in many gods, water spirits, ceremonies and rituals being associated with the Nile from Pharaonic times up until the present.

There are tons of water spirits in both ancient and contemporary folklore tales, and in this article, I’d like to zoom in on the mermaids. Because these are not as friendly and pretty as their depictions would have you believe!

Disease, child mortality and mermaid amulets

As early as 1916, Meyerhof brings up that water spirits are much feared as a source of disease. [1] You only need to look at the reality of Nile floodings to see how much truth there is in this statement: although the flood deposited much-needed soil for agriculture, when the water slowly withdrew, pools of stagnant water with rotting plants were an ideal environment for rats, mosquitoes and other creatures that spread disease.

And that is where the mermaids come in. This same author lists the mermaid Safīna right along with the Qarina in the category of female ‘demons’. Specifically, he notes that she is, again much like the Qarina, responsible for harm brought upon children.

This fear of mermaids killing children was very persistent in Cairo. Drieskens even records recent Cairene belief in a mermaid living in the Nile, determined to kill people: the negative associations attached to the mermaid apparently still linger.[2]

That fear was based both in drowning, and in disease: water-borne diseases such as salmonella, cholera, typhoid fever and parasitic infections affected children under the age of 5 signifcantly. [3]

As with anything that threatens children, here again reverse magic is practiced, too: mermaids were also assumed to help in cases of infertility – if they felt like it. Water spirits are extremely capricious, and can’t really be trusted.

The same ambivalence and connection to fertility beliefs can be seen in Nigerian river spirit Mami Wata and Moroccan water spirit Lalla Aicha Bahriya.

Mermaid imagery on Egyptian silver amulets: form, function, symbol

So, what about those amulets? At the end of the 19^th and early 20^th century, mermaid imagery often occurred on amulets. These were made in silver, readily available and were meant to protect the wearer from Safīna. [4] The mermaid amulets exist in various forms: embossed, pear-shaped amulets with a mermaid, the image of a mermaid engraved in a pendant, or as appliques to be sewn on to clothing.

Most of the time, the mermaids are depicted as we know them: a female with the tail of a fish. They are adorned with jewellery, hold lotus flowers or papyrus stalks, and look much friendlier than they are. That is also a form of magic: by depicting these scary creatures as beautiful and friendly, perhaps they would turn into benign beings….there’s always hope!

But: not all of them look pleasant. A few early pendants show mermaids with bald heads, or only a few strands of hair. They look considerably more terrifying in comparison to the well-coiffed mermaids that form the majority of the amulets.

Visualizing water spirits: mermaid amulets as reflection of everyday Egyptian life

The appearance of mermaid imagery in Egyptian amulets is more than a decorative flourish. It reflects a wider system of folk belief, protection, and everyday symbolism. The whimsical and volatile nature of the river spirits mirrors the realities of living with a river that has the power to nurture, but also to kill.

And when you look at amulets as a reflection of that everyday reality, this is where the true stories begin to unfold themselves. These amulets gave visible form to concerns about disease, fertility, and the dangers of the Nile: a simple silver piece of jewellery with a mermaid engraving carried with it a whole world of meaning — at once amulet, ornament, and expression of belief. I think that is the greatest power they have!

Amulets and charms in jewellery: learn to decode jewellery yourself!

If you are intrigued by the history, meaning, and traditions behind amuletic jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, an in-depth exploration awaits! The online course on Amulets & Charms delves into the fascinating world of talismans, charms, and protective adornments, offering detailed insights into their cultural contexts and historical significance. Whether you are a collector, a jewellery enthusiast, or simply curious, this course provides the tools to deepen your understanding and appreciation.

Click here to see more, and enroll today to uncover the hidden stories behind these remarkable objects – you could be watching the first episode in 10 minutes from now!

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References

[1] Meyerhof 1916, p. 317-318 (and see also p. 314)

[2] Drieskens 2008, p. 102

[3] El-Kowrany, S. et al. 2016. See the article here: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2090123215001137

[4] Meyerhof 1916, p. 319.

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What is an amulet in jewellery? Meaning and tradition

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Magic & Amulets

Amulets and charms

What is an amulet in jewellery? Meaning and tradition

Published Feb 5, 2025

When you have been following this blog for a while, you know that the use of jewellery in informal ritual is one of my main research themes. Jewellery is so powerful when it has the role of amulet! But what is an amulet, exactly…? And what forms can it take? Let’s dive into that in this blog!

In this post, I’ll explore what amulets are, how they function in jewellery, and the many forms they take — from silver cases with inscriptions, to stones like carnelian or turquoise, to simple objects gathered from meaningful places. This blog is a great starting point for my wider exploration of amulets in jewellery traditions across North Africa and Southwest Asia, as it lays the foundation for understanding the world of amulets. At the end of this article, I’ll wrap everything up in a FAQ-section.

What is an amulet? Definitions and cultural meanings

Basically, an amulet is an object that is believed to provide protection, good fortune, or other benefits to its wearer. The word “amulet” derives from the Latin amuletum, which historically referred to an object worn to safeguard against harm.

They go by many names in the region: hirz, higāb, taweez or telsim are just a few of the indications for an amulet. [1] Amulets can take many forms, including inscriptions, gemstones, metals, or organic materials.

While their function varies across different traditions, the common thread is their role as a source of protection and well-being.

Amulets in jewellery: general forms and protective symbols

These objects are part of a longstanding tradition, where materials, shapes, and inscriptions are believed to offer protection, bring blessings, and keep evil away. And that long tradition is, in some cases, so old, that their meaning has changed over time.

Throughout history, specific symbols have persisted in jewellery designs, often without people fully remembering their original meanings. The triangle, for example, appears in numerous regional traditions. It may signify stability, fertility, or protection, depending on the cultural and historical context.

This post about the origin of the triangle shape shows you an example of how that works!

Dots, waves, and geometric patterns are also widespread, and while interpretations vary, their continued use indicates a shared understanding of their beneficial properties. Such motifs are deeply embedded in the visual language of jewellery, passed down through generations as carriers of protection and good fortune.

Amulets with inscriptions: Qur’anic verses and protective texts

What comes to mind often as the first thing when talking about amulets, are pieces containing inscriptions—verses from religious texts, prayers, or symbols created by practitioners skilled in their craft. These talismans are often written on parchment or metal, folded, and enclosed within amulet containers.

See more about those, and the history hidden in their shape, in this blog.

The inscriptions may include verses from the Qur’an, invocations for protection, or numerical and geometric configurations believed to protect. Such inscriptions are considered deeply personal and are rarely shared or displayed openly.

Should you open amulet containers…? Read more about that here!

But there is much, much more in jewellery that may function as an amulet.

Silver, stones, and organic materials in amuletic jewellery

The choice of material is another key factor in amuletic jewellery. Certain stones and metals are believed to hold inherent protective properties.

Silver, for example, is widely used for its association with purity and its supposed ability to ward off harm. Carnelian, turquoise, and amber are frequently incorporated into rings, necklaces, and bracelets due to their perceived protective and healing properties.

Organic materials, such as coral or specific animal parts, are also sometimes used, reflecting an understanding of the natural world as a source of power and protection.

Continuity and change in amulet traditions over time

The thing is, those capacities attributed to materials change significantly over time and per place. So, what may be important in one timeframe, may not carry the same meaning three centuries later, or 20 kilometres away. The power of amulets changes along with its humans, and while these traditions have deep historical roots, they continue to evolve.

They are also prone to commercialisation and marketing: see this article on why pink eye beads really are not a thing!

Understanding the cultural context of jewellery and amulets is crucial if you want to catch a glimpse of the lives of their wearers.

Locality and place: how geography shapes amulets in jewellery

That context sometimes is the literal, actual context of the person who once wore a piece of jewellery. And that is when it gets even more interesting: when we’re looking at materials that seem totally insignificant of themselves. Like pebbles, pieces of flint, a twig of a tree…what could possibly be the value in that, and how would we know? The significance of an amulet is often rooted in local geography: in many traditions, an object gains its power not only from its shape or material but from its origin.

A ritual specialist may prescribe that a piece of flint or a twig must be gathered from a specific location—perhaps a wadi, a mountain pass, or near an ancient well—because that place is believed to hold particular energy or spiritual potency.

This connection between amulets and their place of origin reflects a broader belief that land, history, and spirituality are intertwined. For those who wear these objects, the amulets serve as reminders of their place in the world and the protective forces believed to be inherent in their surroundings.

That is a most beautiful form of connection, and one that is most difficult to interpret for cultural outsiders, too. Sometimes, we are left with nothing more than what looks like a simple pebble, that once meant to world to someone. And when we only look at jewellery as adornment, something as worthless as a regular pebble gets discarded or deselected – its personal and cultural value goes unrecognised.

Frequently Asked Questions about amulets in jewellery

Q: What is an amulet in jewellery?
An amulet in jewellery is an object worn for protection, good fortune, or spiritual benefit. It can take any form imagineable, from religious texts to meaningful objects.

Q: How are amulets different from charms or talismans?
That depends on which definition is used. Broadly speaking, a charm often attracts good luck, while a talisman is made to bring about a specific effect. An amulet is usually worn to protect its wearer from harm or negative forces.

Q: What materials are used for amulets in jewellery?
A wide range of stones such as carnelian, turquoise, and amber, each valued for their individual properties; organic materials such as coral or wood; specific metals such as gold, silver, iron and aluminium for particular circumstances; and any and all materials that hold meaning to the wearer.

Q: Do amulet traditions change over time?
Yes. The meaning and use of amulets vary across regions and periods. A stone or shape that carried power in one century or location might mean something different elsewhere. There is no one-size-fits-all explanation for amulets.

Conclusion: what is an amulet in jewellery?

This short exploration has shown you that everything can be an amulet. Literally everything. Whether it is, depends on so many factors: its material, its symbolism, its cultural context, the process through which it became an amulet, and its importance to its wearer.

I think you may be able to relate to that: we all have that one thing, that ‘lucky charm’ that we carry with us during job interviews or when we travel. It does not even have to be jewellery, it can be a pair of socks, even…but when it makes us feel safer, comforts us or brings us happiness, it is effectively an amulet. But when that pair of socks ends up in the laundry after your trip, can anyone tell their specific importance they hold, but you yourself?

This ‘extra’ use is one of the things that makes jewellery much more than an accessory. It is a repository of cultural memory, identity, spiritual belief, and protective symbolism. Amulets in jewellery are not a side story — they are at the very heart of how jewellery functions in culture.

In North Africa and Southwest Asia, amuletic jewellery has played an essential role in everyday life for a very long time. Jewellery shaped both personal and communal identity, functioned as portable asset, and served protective and symbolic functions simultaneously. I love that multifaceted nature of jewellery!

Amulets and charms in jewellery: learn to decode jewellery yourself!

Click here to see more, and enroll today to uncover the hidden stories behind these remarkable objects – you could be watching the first episode in 10 minutes from now!

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References

[1] See Garcia Probert 2021, p. 55 for a discussion

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Triangular amulets: symbolism and jewellery traditions in the Middle East

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Magic & Amulets

The meaning of triangles

Triangular amulets: symbolism and jewellery traditions in the Middle East

Updated October 1, 2025

Amulets come in many forms, and one of the most familiar is the triangular amulet. Found in jewellery across the Middle East and North Africa, these pieces combine shape, symbolism, and protection. The triangle itself has long been understood as a powerful form, associated with balance, fertility, and strength.

In this blog, part of my series on amulets in jewellery, we’ll look at how triangular amulets appear in silver, beads, textiles, and more — and what they might have meant to the people who wore them.

The symbolism of triangles in amulets and jewellery

Where does the triangle shape of amulets come from? As this is a very ancient symbol, its exact origin is difficult to pinpoint. It may be connected to phenomena in the natural world, such as the sun breaking through clouds, or a stylization of a mountain.

Both are associated with otherworldly realms: the rays of sun are interpreted as a stairway to heaven in some cultures, and mountains are known as places where gateways to other worlds may be located.

Apart from its physical shape, the triangle also carries symbolic value. It represents the constellation of man-woman-child, or the cycle of birth-life-death. Those symbolic values are also echoed in the number 3: see more about numerical values in jewellery here.

The most important thing to remember, I think, is that there is not just one open-and-shut explanation for what a triangle represents. It is not just one and the same thing to every culture that has ever walked this earth. For example, in some cultures, the triangle may also represent a stylized female wearing a dress – or could it be the other way around, that the dress is exaggerated as a triangle precisely because of its symbolic properties?

I’m usually wary of claims for any shape as representing one thing only. The reality of informal ritual and human associations is much more fluid and prone to changes, so instead, I’d suggest we all keep an open mind to the possibility of other explanations.

What we do know, is that the triangle is an important shape, and so you’ll find it in numerous amulets. Let’s look at some examples next! Here, I’ll go into actual amulets, objects designed to keep a person safe or attract good luck – triangles are worked into jewellery as design element in a million ways, but that’s for another blog!

Triangular amulets of gold and silver as containers

One form in which you’ll find triangular amulets, is as an amulet container made of precious metal. These are designed to hold either specific texts, or substances such as incense and herbs. They form part of a complete repertoire of amulet containers: Learn more about amulet containers and their surprising origin in this article.

You’ll find them incorporated into jewellery or worn on their own, executed in gold or silver, or maybe in less precious materials – triangles form a very recognizable form of amulet.

Beaded, textile and leather triangular amulets for protection

The triangle shape is also often used to create amulets that contain something, but that cannot be opened. These more like pouches, and what is contained in them, is often only known to wearer, or even only to the person who made the amulet: the wearer may just have to trust in their craft and knowledge.

These are also worn in jewellery, like the necklace above in the British Museum shows (click to enlarge it). Here, you’ll see a red fabric triangular amulet along with other materials that are known to keep evil at a distance: a tortoise shield and pieces of alum, also in a triangular shape. I’ll be going over those in future posts!

But more often, triangular amulets of fabric, leather of beaded forms are hung on other things than humans: cattle, but also one’s house, car, or utensils. The photo above shows a triangular amulet with golden sequins (and one blue one, against the evil eye), on a loom in Uzbekistan, where I photographed it.

You’ll find them incorporated into jewellery or worn on their own, executed in gold or silver, or maybe in less precious materials – triangles form a very recognizable form of amulet.

Triangular amulets: regional variations

The triangle shape is important in amulets, and this series will continue with very specific examples of triangular amulets that each have their own capacities:

Tunisian resin triangle amulets

Palestinian Hajar Musa triangle amulets

Triangular amulets: Frequently Asked Questions

Why are some amulets triangular?
The triangle is one of the simplest and strongest shapes. It may be derived from sunlight falling through clouds, from the shape of mountains, or refer to female dress. In jewellery, triangular amulets embody this varying symbolism.

What are triangular amulets made of?
They can be made from silver or gold, often serving as containers for prayers or texts. Other examples are created from beads, fabric, leather, or even resin, depending on local traditions.

Where are triangular amulets found?
Triangular amulets are recorded across the wider Middle East and North Africa. Each region used different materials and techniques to shape the triangular form.

Do triangular amulets always have the same meaning?
No. While the triangle often symbolises strength or fertility, its meaning changes depending on time and place.

Are triangular amulets still used today?
The triangle shape is still a popular form for pendants protecting homes, cars and people. They continue to illustrate the cultural importance of amulets in jewellery history.

Triangular amulets: meaning in geometry

By looking closely at triangular forms, we can trace how the simplest geometry became part of a shared visual language of amulets in jewellery.

This post is part of my series on amulets in jewellery — alongside blogs on for example eye beads, glass amulets, and clove necklaces. Together, they show how different materials and forms across the Middle East and North Africa were carriers of protective power!

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Sigrid van Roode

Sigrid van Roode is an archeologist, ethnographer and jewellery historian. Her main field of expertise is jewellery from North Africa and Southwest Asia, as well as archaeological and archaeological revival jewellery. She has authored several books on jewellery, and obtained her PhD at Leiden University on the jewellery of the Egyptian zar-ritual. Sigrid has lectured for the National Museum of Antiquities in Leiden, Turquoise Mountain Jordan, and many others. She provides consultancy and research on jewellery collections for both museums and private collections, teaches courses and curates exhibitions. She is not involved in the business of buying and selling jewellery, and focuses on research, knowledge production, and education only.

Carnelian as amulet: history, symbolism and protective power

by dr. Sigrid van Roode | Magic & Amulets

The blessed stone

Carnelian as amulet: history, symbolism and protection

Updated October 2, 2025

If there is one stone that you’ll find often in ethnic jewellery from the Middle East and North Africa, it has to be carnelian. From the river valleys of Mesopotamia to the tombs of Egypt and the workshops of Rome, this stone was shaped into beads, seals, and amulets. In Islamic traditions too, carnelian has held a special place, often engraved with verses or carried as a protective ring. In this article, part of my series on amulets and charms in jewellery, I’ll explore the history and meaning of carnelian.

A Fayum portrait from Egypt, paired with a gold and carnelian necklace as depicted in the portrait.

Gold choker necklace from ancient Egypt, with carnelian and lapis lazuli beads.

Carnelian in Antiquity: Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Rome

Red carnelian was already a favoured stone in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt. [1] In Akkadian, its name was samtu. In ancient Ur, carnelian in general seems to have been most powerful when used together with lapis lazuli, instead of on its own. [2]

Queen Puabi and her servants were buried around 2,500 BCE in currrent-day Iraq, wearing abundant jewellery in which carnelian featured prominently: see some of their necklaces in the gallery above.

For the ancient Egyptians, carnelian was important on its own. They called it herset, and mined it in the Egyptian desert as well as in northern Sudan. Because of its colour, it was associated with the glow of sunrise and with blood. A certain type of carnelian beads was also used specifically for the dead. [and you’ll find tons of symbolic meaning of ancient Egyptian jewellery in the e-course!]

The Romans favoured carnelian, too: the majority of engraved stones that were worn in rings were made of carnelian. And as such, it continued to be a popular stone for engraved gems in the Byzantine period. [3]

Carnelian in Islamic amulets and rings

That popularity continued during the Middle Ages. You will often find carnelian plaques inscribed with Qur’an verses, or a carnelian stone set in a simple silver ring. That is because carnelian is associated with religion: it carries meaning in Islam, too.

In the hadith it is said that ‘the one who wears a carnelian ring will always know divine favour and happiness.’ [5] The ring of the prophet Muhammad himself may also have sported a carnelian.

Another hadith says ‘Wearing a carnelian seal banishes poverty’ [6] This combines both the power of rings with that of carnelian: see more about rings as amulets here.

A silver Turkmen bracelet with glowing carnelian.

A set of 9 Tuareg silver and carnelian rings.

Carnelian in Middle Eastern and North African jewellery

Carnelian is also important in informal ritual and beliefs. And that is how we find it in jewellery.

Through sympathetic magic, it was believed to alleviate fever, or help with blood-related illnesses and problems such as heavy menstruation. That is because of its colour: thick and heavy like blood, or like the flushed colour of someone with a fever or inflammation.

Let me take you on a quick tour around the region!

In nineteenth-century Yemen, nomadic tribesmen wore a carnelian set in silver around their neck to stop the bleeding if they became injured. Yemen is also where the best carnelian was believed to come from. [7]

In some cases, a silver setting is said to have the opposite effect. It would prevent the stone from doing its work. Unpolished carnelian beads for example, not placed in a setting, were said to cure eye diseases. [8] Their similarity to the irritated eyeball is what makes them believed to be efficient – again, a form of sympathetic magic.

For Bedouin women in southern Palestine, a brown variety of carnelian would increase affection towards the wearer. [9]

In the Maghreb, carnelian was believed to help to remain calm in heated situations such as arguments or fights. Alternatively, it might help to cure bleeding gums, and would have a freshening effect on the breath in general. [10]

The use of carnelian, as well as other agates, is also meaningful to the Tuareg. It has a strong protective aspect, and so you’ll find it often set in rings. As in many other cultures, carnelian is associated with blood and life through its colour. [11]

The lasting meaning of carnelian as a protective stone

The beliefs attached to carnelian are very old, as you have seen in this article.

What makes carnelian so fascinating is its continuity. Civilisations as far apart as ancient Egypt, medieval Yemen, and the Bedouin communities of North Africa all turned to the same stone for its protective and symbolic qualities. Whether it was believed to stop bleeding, bring divine blessing, or simply carry the strength of the sun, carnelian’s role as an amulet shows how jewellery has always been more than adornment.

The use of carnelian is an ancient tradition, and I love how it connects us to the distant past!

Frequently Asked Questions about carnelian as amulet

Why was carnelian important in ancient jewellery?
Carnelian was associated with blood, life, and the glow of sunrise, making it powerful in Mesopotamia, Egypt, and Rome.

What role does carnelian play in Islamic jewellery?
Carnelian in rings and pendants inscribed with Qur’anic verses were believed to bring divine favour, protection, and even banish poverty. This is based in the hadith.

How was carnelian used in Middle Eastern folk traditions?
It was believed to stop bleeding, ease fevers, and increase affection, often linked to its red colour and sympathetic magic.

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References

[1] See for example R. Beal 2022. Dividing a God, in: Mirecki, P. & M. Meyer (eds) Magic and Ritual in the Ancient World, Brill, p. 202 for a statue of a goddess inlaid with carnelian.

[2] See Benzel, K. 2013. Puabi’s adornment for the afterlife. PhD-thesis, Columbia University for a linguistic and archeological discussion.

[3] Bosselmann-Ruickbie, A. 2015. The Symbolism of Byzantine Gemstones: written sources, objects and sympathetic magic in Byzantium, in: Hilgner, A, S. Greiff & D. Quast (eds) Gemstones in the first millennium AD, RGZM Tagungen Band 30, p. 293.

[4] Porter, V. , L. Saif & E. Savage-Smith 2017. Medieval Islamic Amulets, Talismans, and Magic, in: Flood, F.B, & G. Necipoglu, A Companion to Islamic Art and Architecture, p. 543.

[5] Porter, V. 2011. Arabic and Persian seals in the British Museum, p. 1.

[6] Porter, V. 2011. Arabic and Persian seals in the British Museum, p. 21.

[7] Porter, V. 2011. Arabic and Persian seals in the British Museum, p. 22.

[8] E. Doutte 1909, Magie & religion dans l’Afrique du Nord, p. 84.

[9] Biasio, E. 1998. Vom Zelt ins Haus. Beduinen im Negev, p. 235.

[10] E. Doutte 1909, Magie & religion dans l’Afrique du Nord, p. 83.

[11] See Seligman, T. & K. Loughran (eds) 2006. Art of Being Tuareg. Sahara Nomads in a Modern World, p. 184.

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